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Sugarloaf

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Dental Wall 
Left Over Bun 
Midway Rock 
Mini Bun 
Peripheral Rock 
Scone, The 
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Sugar Bun 
Sugarloaf, East Face 
Sugarloaf, South Face 
Sugarloaf, West Face 
West Buttress 
Winter Wall 

Sugarloaf  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,800'
Location: 38.7765, -120.3079 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 183,075
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Mike Arechiga on, The Dominion. 5.10a.

Description 

Sugarloaf



Sugarloaf is a huge granite spire towering over the town of Kyburz on highway 50 between Placerville and Tahoe. It is considered an excellent winter crag because of its lower elevation and mostly south-southwest facing position. There's both sport and trad, with single and multi-pitch routes of grades both easy to moderate, as well as full on hard committing routes that will test the strongest and boldest of climbers. The spire is about 350 feet tall and you can walk off the uphill side without much difficulty.

Peripheral Rocks



The Sugarloaf area also includes a handful of smaller rocks that you can find along the trail leading up to Sugarloaf proper. These rocks hold a slew of low to moderate quality routes with a few classics thrown in. Routes on these rocks can range from easy 5th class to extremely difficult and vary in height between 40' and 100ft tall.


Camping


There are some options for camping in the area but they are undeveloped, few and far between.
1) Drive just up the hill (east) on HWY 50 to Silverfork Rd. There are several pullouts just a few miles up the road that allow for overnight camping. However, the gate closes for the winter, so if it's snowy and icy, chances are the gate will be closed.

2) Drive down HWY 50 (West)and make a right onto 31 Milestone tract. There is a large pullout that allows camping. This road also closes in the winter months but tends to stay open longer than Silverfork Rd.

3) There is year round opportunity along Ice House Rd. Located several miles back (west) down HWY 50, Ice House Rd offers year round primitive camping along numerous pullouts and dirt roads.

Getting There 

From the Bay Area, head East on 80 to Sacramento, then take 50 East, through Placerville and another ~31 miles to the town of Kyburz. Once at the small gas station in Kyburz, you have .6 miles until the dirth pullout on the side of the road (which is right after Sugarloaf Road). You'll be certain you're in the right place if you see the 'Welcome to Kyburz, now leaving Kyburz' road sign just behind you on the opposite side of the road.

From the east end of the pullout, cross highway 50 and skirt the left side of the barbed-wire fence. Walk uphill for ~200 feet and you'll find a 'now entering forest service land' sign. From here a climber's trail is obvious and you just walk up it to the crags.

Sugarloaf is about a 30 minute hike straight up the hill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

115 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',42],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',8],['5.9',20],['5.10',35],['5.11',24],['5.12',15],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf:
Harding's Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 435'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Scheister   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Tri-tip Split Roast   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Split Rock
Swallow Tail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Farley   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Morticia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Pony Express   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Sugarloaf, West Face
TM's Deviation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sugarloaf, West Face
Dominion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Fingerlock   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad   Sugar Bun
Self Abuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Midway Rock
Hyperspace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 165'   Sugarloaf, West Face
Bolee Gold   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Sugarloaf, South Face
Blue Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Sugarloaf, East Face
The Fracture   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Sugarloaf, East Face
Make That Move Right Now Baby   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   Sugar Bun
Telesis   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Taurus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Beast of Burden   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Captain Fingers   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   Sugarloaf, East Face
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf

Featured Route For Sugarloaf
Self Abuse <br />

Self Abuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Midway Rock
Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Sugarloaf Slideshow Add Photo
"The Ghost In The Machine". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"The Ghost In The Machine". Photo by Bli...
Sugarloaf, 1982. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Sugarloaf, 1982. Photo by Blitzo.
Atop Sugarloaf, above the Grand Illusion roof.
Atop Sugarloaf, above the Grand Illusion roof.
Mike Arechiga on, Blue Velvet. 5.10c.
Mike Arechiga on, Blue Velvet. 5.10c.

Comments on Sugarloaf Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 27, 2009
Just a tip regarding the weather link for this page: my recent personal analysis and actual experience has been that Weather Underground (much as I love that site) does not portray an accurate forecast for the Kyburz area. Use noaa.gov instead; although their weather models are probably larger (and therefore less "local") than wunderground's, they seem more accurate.

If you check out the current list of Weather Underground's reporting stations at the bottom of the page (also visually listed on their WunderMap tab), you will see that not a single station is located at the same elevation as Kyburz--all are higher or lower. Further, I believe the numerous stations around South Lake skew the general forecast given for Kyburz to be colder/cooler than it really will be. Having climbed there on a day that was forecasted to be 40 with 40 mph wind gusts by Weather Underground and then finding nothing of the sort has confirmed my suspicions. That same day was forecasted to be 61 with 10 mph winds by noaa.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Mar 13, 2010
Has anyone climbed at Sugarloaf today, April 29? Just wondering what the snow level is like and if the approach is not too snowed in. Thx!
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 25, 2013
Weather Underground has a Sugarloaf station online now, at 5,500 feet elevation.
By Wa Na
May 13, 2014
If you want to stay in the area, I have a 4br house just below Sugarloaf by the school. You can rent the whole house or just 1 rm. Please call/txt (530) 318-7436 for availability