Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face Rock Climbing

Aug 2019 NOTE: Route Names and FA info. have been added to the routes on this cliff, the data taken from the new guidebook by Jon Sykes ("The Notches", eaglecliffpub.com, or it should be available at your local climbing shop.) Thanks Jon for the research! In addition there are many routes on Sugarloaf listed in that guidebook that do not yet have full descriptions listed here. Conversely, some new routes put in since the book went to press are only listed in Mountainproject. 

This is the cliff you get a glimpse of from Rt 302 when traveling from Bretton Woods towards the town of Twin Mtn. The "Main Face" has seen spurts of development in the 1980's, 1990's and the 21st Century. By-and-large the rock is clean, solid and fairly well protected with some climbs having been recently "retro-bolted in 'trad' style" (i.e. "X-factors" removed but not eliminating the risk-reward challenge.) Climbers should be aware of 'hollow' flakes that, while usually OK to use for climbing, it might be best to not place cams behind them, lest the cams pry out in a fall, or worse break off the flake. This is not a usual problem, but be aware!

Approach is about 30-40 minutes by a good hiking trail. Views are SPECTACULAR! (Any non-climbers in your group will appreciate them)

The climbing is the usual "gear protected with a bolt if necessary" on most routes, generally high-angle slab on clean rock.

Several 1980's climbs are described in Webster's 2nd Edition. His 3rd Ed., "Wht. Mtns. EAST, doesn't go this far west. Jon Skyes' new guidebook fills in that gap, although "Steve's Twilight" (and it's 'Direct') had its FA after that guidebook was "set to go".

To the Base of the Cliff: There are four (4) possible descents: A Class 3 scramble on each end of the cliff [described as ROUTEs], and now (late 2015) two possible rap lines.[See photo "Established Rap Lines"] These rap lines are also described as routes.

THE BEST RAP LINE is probably the "Center Cliff Rap Line" since it can be done easily with one 60M rope (3 raps). [See the "climb" listed as "Center Cliff Rap Line" for directions]

The "Suzy Q" rap line [See the "climb" Suzy Q Rap Line for directions] can be rapped using either two 60M ropes in one long rap, or can be rapped with two raps using a single 70m (but not single 60m). However, if using a single 70M be advised the "mid-station" anchor is not "set" for rapping so you will have to leave something here.

The following climbs on the "Main Face" (listed L to R, starting just beyond the South Gully descent) are currently NOT in Mountainproject but can be found in the local guidebook(s):  "JS"= described in Jon Sykes "The Notches", "EW"= described in Ed Webster's 2nd Edition)

A Bit Too Long 5.10 "JS" (previously listed in MP as Unknown#1) 3 bolts on a slab about 150 ft Right of the South (Left) descent gully

Lutter's Run 5.10 JS

Tap Dancer 5.10 JS

Swain's Direct 5.10 JS (variation on Bullit's Alt Direct Start)

Get the Lead Out (EW), start just R of Bullit, climb through middle crack in OverLap. 5.8+

Shrapnel EW , JS 12 Ft R of Shrapnel, climbs through the Left crack in the Overlap.5.8

Pleasant Street 5.6 JS (after 1st 15 ft of Suzy Q goes left)

Painted Forest 5.10 JS

Fiddle Dee Dee 5.7 JS

Fiddle Dee Dum 5.5 JS

Clean Corner Slabs (JS, EW): 5.7 +

19, 20, 21 See (EW) On the giant boulder on the right (facing out) near the top of the North Gully descent.

Jack the Knife – 5.7

Sickle - 5.7 -

Solitude 5.9 TR –