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 ADVANCED
Flapping.../Nuclear arms area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze) T 
Diamond Dogs T 
Digital Disco T,S 
Flappin' In the Breeze T,S 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slab Accurate T,S 
Sugaree T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sugaree 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Proctor, Peter White (1985, ground-up)
Season: Winter
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Mar 9, 2012

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A good shot of the start.

Description 

This is a route that will surely test your nut placing ability. The thin seams that run the length of the route are very shallow and often flared in the wrong direction. Most of the route has very moderate moves with one stopper crux move.

Two approaches exist for getting to the base. You can use Nuclear Arms or use the "3rd" class ramp from the base of Flappin' in the Breeze. We chose the ramp. The ramp is slightly dirty with only a few places for gear in solid rock. Overall an okay way to approach the base. If you use the ramp, stretch a 60m rope to it's end and get your partner to simul. climb about 20' to get to the base of Sugaree.

From the base you will notice thin intermittent seams with a pin in the middle. Start through secure ledges with no gear until about 20'. Start working in your smallest nuts. Continue moving up passing the pin until you can step slightly left at a crack that goes up and left. It is imperative to get the good medium sized stopper and TCU placements here for the crux move. Once you got the gear, make the very difficult lie-back sort of move to get to the good hands again. Unfortunately, the feet in the crux are covered in moss and are slick. A brush is not a bad idea. Once through the crux, the crack gets bigger and the gear gets better. Continue up and left until you are on a sloping terrace. About 20' to the left is a two-nut anchor at the right side of a giant block.


Location 

Use the nut anchor to rap to a two-bolt anchor about 100' lower. Rap again to reach the ramp where there is a good pine tree and another rap station. Rap back down the ramp. The other option is to top the entire cliff out and walk to climbers right over Lakeview and down the gully on the right side of Lakeview near the Kennel.


Protection 

Mostly nuts and RP's, with an occasional TCU or tri-cam. At least 10 slings for all the nuts and two 60m ropes. A few flared pods near the pin and after the crux will take tri-cams nicely up to navy or hand sized cams. We did not have RP's, so this can be done with stoppers only, but won't be as secure.



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