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 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
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Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T,S 
Bad Boys Bolt T 
Beer for Breakfast T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 
Birdland T 
Black Market T 
Blackstreak TR 
Dirty Love T 
Fun Flake T 
Funkativity T 
Go Spuds Go T 
Good Girls Don't T 
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 
Shadow Dance S 
Slab Happy S 
Sugar Mountain T 
Two Minds Meet T 
Wigs on Fire T,S 
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Sugar Mountain 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,190
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on May 30, 2009

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Route in blue (belay at circle), scramble up in re...

Description 

This route is a fun, easy climb up Greyrock's South Slabs that ascends the right margin of the upper slab, aiming for a corner and small roof at its upper right side.

P1 - Face climb up the water streaks left of the end of the slab. No obvious pro for probably 30+ feet, but the climbing doesn't exceed 5.3 or 5.4. Continue up through intermittent flakes and seams, following the path of least resistance. Belay on a small ledge at a horizontal break in the face.

P2 - Climb the corner and adjacent crack to right beneath the roof. Traverse right under the roof and pull up on a nice ledge. Belay here, or continue up cracks to wherever you please.

Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado" advises a downclimb descent to the southwest. However, one can easily link up climbable features anywhere from 3rd/4th class to 5.8 and reach the summit.


Location 

This route is on the second tier of Greyrock's south slabs. Approach as for Fun Flake and climb that or any of the lower slab routes to the second tier, or scramble up the gully climber's left of that route. Begin on the far right side of the upper slabs and climb up the face, aiming for a left-facing corner and small roof above.


Protection 

A standard rack up to #4 Friend/Camalot will do just fine. If 5.5 is far under your limit, you can absolutely get away with a light rack including a fist-sized piece.



Photos of Sugar Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Sugar Mountain climbs the low angle slab up to where the large, left-facing corner systems leans in, and ascends the corner through the easy roof above.
BETA PHOTO: Sugar Mountain climbs the low angle slab up to whe...
Comments on Sugar Mountain Add Comment
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By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Oct 31, 2010

A really mellow/enjoyable solo. This is my new standard hiking route up Greyrock! Fun fun fun!

Oh so sweeeeeeeet!!! - Sugar Mountain :) Woo hoo!