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 ADVANCED
East Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adagio 
Adam's Rib 
Beyond The Abyss 
Block Party 
Chestnut 
Fun Park 
Goldrush 
Moondance 
Neve Climb On 
Northern Lights 
Powder in the Sky 
Say Goodbye To Hollywood 
Slot Right Step Left 
Slot, The 
Sugar Mama 
Yellow Latex Blues 
Yorkey's Crumpet 
Unsorted Routes:

Sugar Mama 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: D. Langmade, Steve Moose, 1978
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a classic case of a pretty line and a not very good climb. Uphill from The Slot and just below Chestnut, look for a cool looking, dark corner.

Climb this corner to a ledge just below where the corner looks blank. Here you make a decision. Traverse left to easier ground and use the Chestnut tree anchor to descend OR continue up the blank corner at about 5.9 R.


Protection 

A single set of small cams and stoppers.



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By Becky Gibbs
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 25, 2008

I climbed the upper dihedral direct (5.9 R) and thought it was fun (3 stars).