2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is the obvious buttress on the north side of the road when you turn onto Sugarloaf Road. It has some decent rock, but also a lot of munge and loose rock. I have never seen anyone else climb here. There is a single known route on the southwest side of the buttress (Sugar Crack). There is also a juggy and steep boulder problem on the northeast side.
Drive west up Boulder Canyon approximately 3.8 miles from where the highway crosses Boulder Creek. Turn right on Sugarloaf Rd and park in a 1-2 car pulloff on the right side of the road about 250' from the intersection. The crag is directly across the road on the north side.
Begin on the southwest side of the buttress and climb an angling, hand crack to a small bush. At this point, the crack forms a quartz-filled groove and the pro becomes scarce. It is possible to stem left to the corner and avoid the mungy runout. Continue up to a handcrack splitting a roof and turn the roof using hand jams and face holds (crux). Continue to the top of the buttress up broken rock....[more]Browse More Classics in CO