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Ginger Buttress
Routes Sorted
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All You Can Eat T 
Cayenne corners T 
Fist or Flips T 
Ginger Cracks T 
Power Failure T,S 
Snake Buttress T 
Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 
Sugar and Spice T 
Unimpeachable Groping S 

Sugar and Spice 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Sugar and Spice, on the Ginger Buttress

Description 

Sugar and Spice. This is actually two routes, a combination of polar opposites. Allow me to explain...

I've had my eye on a possible line to the right of Ginger Cracks, so we went out to explore. We started up a corner system, and soon saw signs of previous passage: fixed pro and rap stations. But the gear was really ancient. We saw hexes with the sharp corners and circular lightening hole like they had in the early 70's. A wired hex with no shrink wrap. An old Star Dryvin bolt. The climbing was tricky, committing, and difficult to protect, even with cams. But the story told by the old hardware was pretty obvious: the hardmen of the 70's had been here long ago. As we worried above some fragile stoppers, we could see, twenty feet to our right, a line of shiny, sturdy-looking bolts. Another unrecorded climb. The bolts ultimately helped us, though. When our crack petered out on a blank wall three pitches up, we had a ready-made rappel route.

In fact, even the top of our climb had some shiny new bolts to rap from, since the other route had merged with ours for the last 80 feet. Even as we arranged our rappel on the modern hardware, we could see a few tattered threads of the light blue webbing that served as the rappel anchor for the old-timers. As we descended, Joanne eyed the other route. "Look," she said, "they've sport bolted it." The rock looked solid and clean, so we headed back up. Not quite a sport climb, though. It was runout on the easy stuff, and the few gear placements we came across were very welcome. Another good route, worth sharing with the Red Rock community.

I've never heard of a name for either of these climbs, and have therefore taken the liberty of coining my own. Certainly the first ascentionists of the initial climb have had a few decades to put forth a name if they wanted to, and none has come to light. The second route is more modern, but there is this one little thing. A handhold appears to have been enhanced by some questionable drillwork, so it seems unlikely that the FA party is seeking publicity. Based on the proximity of the nearby Ginger Cracks, the close relationship of the two new routes, and the ambiguous status of the bolted route, my solution is to package them together and call it "Sugar and Spice." Like the sweetener, the bolted route is pleasant, even if lacking in nutritional value. The challenging protection on the older line, in contrast, contributes a distinct sensation of spiciness. Together, they are a palatable combination. (If anyone has better information, send it in and we'll post a correction.) The descriptions follow:

Spice, 5.9 About 30 feet right of Ginger Cracks is an obvious corner system with a bush about 80 feet up. Climb this for three pitches to a bolted anchor. Bring extra cams in the finger sizes, and lots of thin wires. Not that you'll get to place a lot of them, but if you have a lot, you might happen to have size you actually need.

Sugar, 5.10a Immediately right of Spice a small buttress forms a low angle apron. Start on the right side of this and climb to a bolted anchor. A few bolts and some small cams provide protection. The first pitch is only 5.7 or 5.8, but a little runout. The second pitch starts with a few gear placements before reaching a row of bolts leading to the second anchor. From here you can move left for ten feet and join Spice for a final pitch, or rappel. Two 60-meter ropes reach the ground from this point. One rope will probably reach the first-pitch anchors, but we did not check this (so be careful!)


Protection 

Std rack plus lots of small wires and finger-size cams


Photos of Sugar and Spice Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the bolted slab on pitch 1 of Sugar.
Looking down the bolted slab on pitch 1 of Sugar.
Sugar's somewhat harder second pitch.
Sugar's somewhat harder second pitch.

Comments on Sugar and Spice Add Comment
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By Jerry Handren
Oct 27, 2005

Actualy Larry this route is in the guidebook, its just realy badly described, its called Cayenne Corners. Just ignore the photodiagram on page 305( along with just about every other photodiagram in the book) and ignore the " 200 ft right of Ginger cracks", and you will see that the rest of the description fits the line. Also in the same area, I'm pretty sure that Sweet Honey Pumpkin Love and Its a Boy! It's a Girl are the same route.
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 28, 2005

Jerry-- I am pretty sure that Cayenne Corners is a different route. According to the Brock guidebook (which I admit some reluctance to trust), both the photo and the written description conform to a line that is another 50 yards to the right. As further confirmation, there is a bolt on that line that is easily visible. As far as the description goes, on Cayenne Corners there is mention of hand cracks, roofs, and 5.10d difficulty, none of which do you find here. (The line I think is Cayenne Corners is visible on the right edge of the beta photo.) I guess one of us has to go and climb Cayenne so we can know for sure!

As for the potential overlap on It's a Boy! It's a Girl and SweetHoney Pumpkin Love-- I would not be surprised if there is some confusion here. In fact, George Urioste told me (long before the new guide came out) that he thought they might be the same route. I have not done either of those cracks so the jury is still out...
By Jerry Handren
Oct 28, 2005

I asked Andrew Fulton, who was on the first ascent team, about the route a month or two ago, he said that it was a short distance right of Ginger cracks. I said how far is a short distance?, he said "spitting distance". Now while I would never underestimate Andrews spitting ability, the line in the topo is a little far. After our conversation he left me with the impression that Cayenne Corners was the line that you are calling Spice, but I'll try to get a definative answer sometime soon.
By Jerry Handren
Oct 28, 2005

Had a talk with Andrew tonight, he confirmed that Cayenne Corner is indeed the line on the next chunk of rock to the right, ie to the right of Sugar and Spice. Sorry for the confusion.