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Unsorted Routes:

Suffer Pony at the Disco 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 11 pitches, 1900', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: September 21, 2009 - Jeremy Roop and Joe Forrester
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,564
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Sep 24, 2009
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Joe Forrester following P4.
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Description 

Approach – Descend SOB Gully and head for the Painted Wall. Enter the gully between the Northern aręte of the Painted Wall and the Porcelain aręte Buttress. Ascend for 200-300 ft on 3rd class until it is possible to traverse the Porcelain Aręte Buttress on third class. Traverse to the East side of the buttress and locate the right-most (most north east) bushy dihedral.

P1 – 230 ‘ Follow bushy left facing dihedral up the aręte surmounting small roof in process. Belay on nice ledge. (5.7+)

P2 – 230’ Instead of heading into the left facing dihedral as for the Porcelain aręte, head up and right into the right facing dihedral. Step left under obvius crack to belay. (5.7+)

P3 – 110’ Continue up loose “limestone” crack surmounting small roof. Belay directly on the aręte. (5.9-)

P4 – Make improbable moves over aręte to regain R side of the aręte. (5.9+/10-)

P5-9 are almost entirely on the north east face of the Porcelain Arete buttress.

P5 – 230’ - Head out right along 3-4” crack making hand traverse into an offwidth. Belay on top of pillar on East side of the buttress. (5.8-)

P6 – Face climbing directly up from P5 belay leads to a ramp leading up and right. On top of ramp dicey free climbing leads to belay ledge. (5.10R)

P7 – 220’ Head right along ledge to offwidth. Belay at top of offwidth. Classic (5.8-)

P8 – Head up broken rock to base of first large pillar on the Porcelain aręte buttress. (5.7)

P9 – Continue on left side of pegmatite tower, find belay in large blocks. (5.6-5.7)

P10/11 – Continue up easy 5th to summit.

Descent – Follow the Painted Wall trail back to camp.


Location 

Located on the Porcelain Arete Buttress, to the right of the Porcelain Arete route.


Protection 

1 #4, doubles 3-0.5, set of Aliens, set of stoppers. 70m rope advantageous.



Photos of Suffer Pony at the Disco Slideshow Add Photo
Jeremy Roop somewhere on the route.
Jeremy Roop somewhere on the route.
The route follows the sun/shade line on the far right side of the Porcelain Arete buttress.
The route follows the sun/shade line on the far ri...
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