|North Rim Routes
Approach – Descend SOB Gully and head for the Painted Wall. Enter the gully between the Northern aręte of the Painted Wall and the Porcelain aręte Buttress. Ascend for 200-300 ft on 3rd class until it is possible to traverse the Porcelain Aręte Buttress on third class. Traverse to the East side of the buttress and locate the right-most (most north east) bushy dihedral.
P1 – 230 ‘ Follow bushy left facing dihedral up the aręte surmounting small roof in process. Belay on nice ledge. (5.7+)
P2 – 230’ Instead of heading into the left facing dihedral as for the Porcelain aręte, head up and right into the right facing dihedral. Step left under obvius crack to belay. (5.7+)
P3 – 110’ Continue up loose “limestone” crack surmounting small roof. Belay directly on the aręte. (5.9-)
P4 – Make improbable moves over aręte to regain R side of the aręte. (5.9+/10-)
P5-9 are almost entirely on the north east face of the Porcelain Arete buttress.
P5 – 230’ - Head out right along 3-4” crack making hand traverse into an offwidth. Belay on top of pillar on East side of the buttress. (5.8-)
P6 – Face climbing directly up from P5 belay leads to a ramp leading up and right. On top of ramp dicey free climbing leads to belay ledge. (5.10R)
P7 – 220’ Head right along ledge to offwidth. Belay at top of offwidth. Classic (5.8-)
P8 – Head up broken rock to base of first large pillar on the Porcelain aręte buttress. (5.7)
P9 – Continue on left side of pegmatite tower, find belay in large blocks. (5.6-5.7)
P10/11 – Continue up easy 5th to summit.
Descent – Follow the Painted Wall trail back to camp.
Located on the Porcelain Arete Buttress, to the right of the Porcelain Arete route.
1 #4, doubles 3-0.5, set of Aliens, set of stoppers. 70m rope advantageous.
Jeremy Roop somewhere on the route.
The route follows the sun/shade line on the far ri...