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Suffer Pony at the Disco 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 11 pitches, 1900', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: September 21, 2009 - Jeremy Roop and Joe Forrester
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,824
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Sep 24, 2009

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Joe Forrester following P4.

2014 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach: descend SOB Gully and head for the Painted Wall. Enter the gully between the Northern aręte of the Painted Wall and the Porcelain Aręte Buttress. Ascend for 200-300 feet on 3rd class until it is possible to traverse the Porcelain Aręte Buttress on third class. Traverse to the East side of the buttress and locate the right-most (most north east) bushy dihedral.

P1. 230'. Follow a bushy, left-facing dihedral up the aręte surmounting a small roof in process. Belay on nice ledge (5.7+).

P2. 230’. Instead of heading into the left-facing dihedral as for the Porcelain Aręte, head up and right into the right-facing dihedral. Step left under obvius crack to belay (5.7+).

P3. 110’. Continue up a loose “limestone” crack surmounting small roof. Belay directly on the aręte (5.9-).

P4. Make improbable moves over an aręte to regain the right side of the aręte (5.9+/10-).

P5-9. They are almost entirely on the northeast face of the Porcelain Arete buttress.

P5. 230’. Head out right along 3-4” crack, making a hand traverse into an offwidth. Belay on top of pillar on East side of the buttress (5.8-).

P6. Face climbing directly up from thP5 belay leads to a ramp leading up and right. On top of ramp, dicey free climbing leads to belay ledge (5.10R).

P7. 220’. Head right along ledge to an offwidth. Belay at top of offwidth. Classic (5.8-).

P8. Head up broken rock to the base of the first large pillar on the Porcelain Aręte buttress (5.7).

P9. Continue on the left side of a pegmatite tower, and find a belay in large blocks (5.6-5.7).

P10/11. Continue up easy 5th class climbing to summit.

Descent: follow the Painted Wall trail back to camp.

Location 

This is located on the Porcelain Arete Buttress, to the right of the Porcelain Arete route.

Protection 

1 #4, doubles 3-0.5, set of Aliens, set of stoppers. 70m rope advantageous.


Photos of Suffer Pony at the Disco Slideshow Add Photo
Jeremy Roop somewhere on the route.
Jeremy Roop somewhere on the route.
The route follows the sun/shade line on the far ri...
The route follows the sun/shade line on the far ri...

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