Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eavesdown Docks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alliance, The 
Black Market Beagles 
Browncoat 
Bushwhacked 
Canceled 
Captain Hammer 
Captain Mal 
Captain Tight Pants 
Companion, The 
Damage My Calm 
Firefly 
Jubal 
Oh Captain! My Captain! 
Out of Gas 
Out to the Black 
Shindig 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 
Too Pretty to Die  

Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: 18 Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 5.10a
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A harder-than-it-looks sequence off the ground to clip the second bolt, then fun, but somewhat tricky climbing to a short section of lower-angled rock. The lower-angled rock then steepens to vertical as you approach the intimidating roof. Just keep telling yourself it really is .10a as you grope for holds over the roof and maybe even catch a little air.


Location 

Climbs up through a shallow trough ten or fifteen feet left of a tree through a roof up high.


Protection 

14 bolts, ring anchors.



Comments on Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal Add Comment
Show which comments
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great climb up through the ninth bolt. At bolt 9, the rock quality gets worse and makes every move slower and more methodical up to the roof. There might be some secret beta for pulling the roof that makes it 10a but I played around up there for about 5 minutes and didn't find anything that felt easier than 10c\d. I thought this felt substantially harder than the 10b right next to it and a little harder than the 10c two routes over.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 12, 2013

(Cue evil chuckle from Darren...)

It really is right around .10a, but the key hold isn't immediately obvious from below and the crux is fairly sequential for a .10a.

(I didn't onsight it, which for me is unusual at this grade. I'm sure once it's all chalked up it'll be a bit more obvious.)

By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 13, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Perin - I thought I could hear DK chuckling as I flailed around over that roof :)