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This climb is a great thin-hands crack in a corner with occasional rests. The roof will probably be the crux for most people. The crack starts out a tad smaller (green Camalots) and then becomes great thin-hands climbing with nice holds on the face for rests. The roof packs a bit of a punch but perfect hand jamming awaits above, taking you to the anchors. Definitely recommended.
Sudden Impact is the thin-hands crack in a right-facing corner just left of Torque Wrench and Death of a Cowboy. There's a prominent roof about 2/3 of the way up the climb and some lower angle, soft rock at the bottom.
2 or 3 green Camalots, a bunch (8?) of reds and a few gold Camalots for good measure. Also, maybe one blue Camalot. I also believe that I used a smaller piece to protect the lower section although I may have backcleaned the piece to save on rope drag.
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
kind of like a thin hands mirror image of meathooks. tight hands in a corner forever with a roof near the top. this is an excellent route.
From: Oakland CA
Nov 13, 2009
new version of the guidebook says 180', which I think is more accurate. Wasn't much left of a 60m on the ground.
Used yellow alien/tcus (2) to protect the start, but backcleaning is a good idea for drag purposes.
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Nov 3, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Long, sweet route! Take 4, or so, .75 camalots, or so. There's a section of nothing but in the bottom of the main corner right after a little wide pod. Then it's 1s until all the way til after the roof (which is freakin hard!).