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Sudden Exposure 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: Riddler on Nov 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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jenny on Sudden Exposure in Ogden Canyon. It is a...

Description 

This route is pretty exciting for a roadside 5.8 sport climb. Get to the upper ledge by either climbing one of the lower pitches or hiking up and around. Walk out on the ledge and have your belayer anchor in at the bolts. Traverse out to the right all the way to the arete. DO NOT knock any rocks off or you could have a serious lawsuit on your hands. At this point you will have quite the view, and the cars racing by directly under you make it a little intimidating. Climb the arete past four bolts, then run it out to the anchors or bring a few small/medium pieces to protect the easy top section.

Location 

Starts on the upper ledge next to "If the Fall Doesn't Kill You, a Car Will." A single rap lands you right back at the belay.

Protection 

Four bolts and optional gear for the last 20 feet. The climbing after the last bolt is only about 5.5 so you may not want to bother with gear.


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By oliver
Jun 30, 2009

This was a really good climb. Being on the arete was pretty fun! The most intimidating part of the climb is trying not to knock anything off on to the cars below.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a GREAT climb, if not a bit short. Stay right on the arete if you can, which has some good holds. The face has some places where the holds are quite sparse. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

I recommend clipping the first bolt of the face climb to belay the leader as they traverse across the face, out to the arete. You can unclip that bolt once the leader gets to the second bolt on the arete, to minimize rope friction.

There is a great photo spot from just above the belay, where the evening sun illuminates the 'peery camp' wall across the canyon for this climb.
By steve lindsay
Apr 3, 2011

WARNING. (3/30/2011) The block at the top is in ready to go. While threading the chains my right foot was on this large block. It shifted over an inch but did not go. Will fall and hit cars soon! Stay clear. Super fun climb.
By Tom S. Burton
From: Ogden, Utah
Jul 3, 2013

I bolted this route in 2001. My drill battery ran out at the top and I originally planned to return to place one last bolt. In the end, I figured the last bit of the climb was relatively easy and could be protected with trad gear. If you have climbed this arete, you will understand the route name ( the name was also a play on one of my favorite arete-routes at the City of Rocks, 'Sudden Pleasure').
By Shawn S. Barker
Jul 15, 2013

Awesome climb! Surprisingly scary due to the exposure right over the cars below.

(Also, if anyone picked up my size 8 Anasazi VCS's, I'd like them back. Left them up there on accident, came back the next day, and they were gone. :( Only used them for a month.)
By Lindsey Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 27, 2014

I also clipped the bolt by the belay station until I had traversed over to the route. There are 3 or 4 bolts at the belay station for your belayer or any additional climbers on the ledge. On the route, after the last bolt I did place a .5 cam to make it less runout. More of a confidence piece than anything.