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Sudden Death 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Strassman, Alex Kiss
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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Rounding the corner halfway to the chains.


This demanding climb is interesting, varied, and well protected. Look for the prominent, left-facing corner system that switches cracks about 25 feet up. It is best to establish the belayer at the ledge at the base of the steep climbing. Some climbers will do this route in two pitches, stopping at the infamous sudden death belay block (which is well-attached to the wall.) This is an awkward and uncomfortable belay station, and one of the two following options is suggested. The best way to do this climb is in one pitch to the top. This requires a number of long runners, and thoughtful placements to reduce rope-drag. The other option is to belay approximately 65 feet above the ground, before the traverse right and up to the sudden death belay. This belay stance is small, but good protection is available. Either way, this is an excellent climb and should not be missed. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)


Pro to 3", anchors.


See Squeezing the Lemmon.

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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 28, 2008

quite a demanding climb! i almost blew the (semi) onsight on the final 20 feet at the top. don't give up before the chains!

By Boodge Nomchompski
Aug 16, 2009

WOW! Very good climb! Sustained, great pro, fun climbing! A must do route!

By ryan dillon
From: Tucson, AZ.
Jun 16, 2010

Found a pair of glasses today at the base of the slab up to the route. If your looking for them I have them.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2011

Lots of long runners and this is a great single pitch. My belayer was tied in and climbed up to the very start of the route and I was able to lower off with a 70M rope.