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 ADVANCED
South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Crimping Lessons S 
Mamunia S 
Middle Age Crazy T 
Middle Age Crisis S 
Middle Age Savage T 
My Laundry T 
Piggle Pugg T 
Shooting Star T 
Solid Gold T 
Such a Savage T 
Such a Waste TR 
Walking Pneumonia T 

Such a Savage 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Spencer Lennard and Craig Fry, November 1977
Page Views: 3,168
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Brian Smith is cruising after making the run to th...

Description 

Yet another of the classic face routes on the Astro Domes, this one is memorable for a stiff runout to the first bolt as well as the steep, well-protected face climbing higher.

P1) Climb about 20' of insecure 5.10 friction above the talus to a bolt, run it out again to a second bolt (this feels much easier) and continue to a ledge above which the wall steepens to vertical. Four more bolts along a bolt ladder (some clips are awkward) take you to a bolted belay.

P2) Leave the belay and climb featured vertical face with interesting moves past four bolts to the top and another bolted anchor.

Descend by walking off around the back or rapping down any of several routes (Breakfast Of Champions or Shooting Star).

Location 

Starts 70' right of Solid Gold and 15' left of Breakfast of Champions (obvious flake/crack system) at a smooth apron of rock.

Protection 

All bolts with bolted belays(3/8") Be aware that the start of the climb is very runout.


Photos of Such a Savage Slideshow Add Photo
moving into the crux
moving into the crux

Comments on Such a Savage Add Comment
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By Steven Powers
Aug 29, 2004

I recommend the start further left of the original line as it's more direct and much safer, the only difference is you miss out of some good runout friction climbing.
By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 22, 2006

Be sure to make a right at the fifth bolt on this route, as there is a newer line (.12c?) that continues straight up at this point and it is VERY easy to get suckered into following it.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 1, 2007

The newer route is called Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b).
By Drewsky
Aug 10, 2009

If you're comfortable on 5.10 friction, the runout will likely seem reasonable (it's probably on the easy end of 5.10). That said, the landing is terrible and a highly angulated ankle/leg fracture in the Wonderland would be a horrific ordeal. Use caution!
By Craig Fry
Jan 30, 2011

The run out at the bottom was a mistake, and spurred on by people below saying "keep going"

Add a bolt, you have my permission
By Geoff Archer
Jan 30, 2011

What?? After all these years?? The riff-raff runout is a thing of legend and JT history. Why change it now? I say let the young guns cut their teeth just like we did......

Long live the riff-raff runout!!!!!
By Murf
Jan 31, 2011

Plus you'd have to get Hashbro to agree. Kinda a moot point, as there is a direct start now that will get to the crux much more reasonably bolted.
By Muff
Mar 26, 2012

I am slightly confused as to this direct start. I have not yet done this route but I am just looking for clarification as to the direct start that "now exists". Was there some debris or talus that was cleaned that opened up a new line to the first bolt or is just that someone had yet to climb said line that now exists? Looking to jump on this thing pretty soon and looking forward to it!
By Randy
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The Direct Start is actually the beginning of Middle Age Savage (which then climbs the crux of Such A Savage, before moving left and then up).

Climb an easy (and obvious) ramp up and left until you are below a small right facing corner/crack system. A bolt protects climbing up into the corner. You end up moving a bit right until you are on the ledge below the well bolted crux section of Such A Savage -- the original start comes in from the right to this point.

As a side note, the ramp is actually the start of Shooting Star (5.11a X) which was established well before Middle Age Savage, but from the end of the ramp that route continues up and left on the face.

Many people now choose to start Such A Savage via Middle Age Savage because it is easier and (most importantly) much better protected.
By Muff
Mar 26, 2012

Thanks for the clarification Randy!