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Routes in Tom's Thumb
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Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Garbonzo Bean T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Great Compromise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Look But Don't Touch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Men at Work Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Pretty Girls Make Graves T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Settlement, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spare Parts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Treiber's Deception T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ubangy Lips T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,155 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | joe E lee on Jan 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access:
Details
The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016
Details
The temporary closure at Tom’s Thumb has been re-opened as the falcons have fully fledged and are no longer in the area. This year there were 5 beautiful off spring! Thank you so much for respecting the temporary closure, your commitment to the Preserve and it's wildlife is appreciated.
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
This is a killer line up the entire north face of Tom's Thumb. A treat for the well rounded trad climber. The start, in a box, appears unappealing but the jams are fun. Then undercling right with slick feet to a small right facing corner with a crack, which starts with tips but becomes more secure as you go higher. The short transition from roof to corner is about 10c or harder (I pulled on a piece to get around). The upper crack starts with a short section of wide hands and then becomes a very long run of offwidthing with some squeezing chimneys thrown in. The locals at Vedauwoo would be jealous. Gear anchor at the top. Walk right (west) to rappel anchors with slings and rap rings. Single rope rappel with a sixty meter.
Location
When you approach Tom's Thumb, walk around the base to the right into the shade. Only go a short distance and you will see a box with poor looking rock with a roof. The roof has a crack that angles up and right to a right facing corner and a wide crack going straight up from there.
Protection
Bring a full standard rack. You may want a thin fingertip piece like a black alien to help protect the start of the corner. As for the upper wide crack, I would take at least one offwidth piece which means long, long runouts. If you want protection every 10 feet, you'll need at least one green Camalot and several (3-4) offwidth pieces.
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