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Primo Wall
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Squeezing My Will to Live S 
Suburban Cowgirls S 
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Tater Tot S 

Suburban Cowgirls 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 942
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Just past the crux on Suburban Cowgirls. One more ...

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  • Description 

    This line chases three bolts to the right end of the ledge above "City Slickers". It involves a very challenging mantle crux past the first bolt. I'll give it an "S" rating because the stance for the second clip is just barely in balance and if you haven't set up correctly you're likely to peel off backwards in a nasty, close-to-the-deck slammer fall. I've never taken that fall, but I've seen all sorts of people struggle with the mantle and pitch off trying to stand up. Getting onto the sloping ledge after the clip is no giveaway either, but that move is toproped by the third clip. Two stars for quality stone and a significantly devious crux.

    Protection 

    Three bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with "City Slickers").


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    By Ryan Olson
    Nov 20, 2003

    2 stars is a bit much for this route in my oppinion. it is very short and the clips are bad. Also, the movement is not that great either.
    By Steve Woods
    Jul 21, 2005
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Good route, but not sure where the 11c grade comes from. It felt all of 5.12a to me. ;-) The second clip is sketchy, but can be done from the right-hand crimp before comitting to the left-hand crimp sidepull. Powerfull start to technical/balancey crux to awkward mantel.
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Jun 23, 2008

    My two cents on the grade..This short route is considerably easier than City Slickers next door...so obviously this would make it mid-5.11 range..I was getting pumped out on City Slickers, but had plently of juice to tic this one after several burns on the previous..Maybe V-2+..Thanks.
    By Luke Childers
    Aug 21, 2009
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

    This line should get a make-over and be bolted all the way to the top of the wall!! It could be cool and it would make for a harder line. I may check it out this week and see if it would be good. It's just a thought.
    By Jon Zucco
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 8, 2012

    Don't know if you need to mantle on the crux. I think I found a way to balance fingers on the vertical edge above keeping body tension tight and the left leg flagged, standing up is not too hard, just be sure to remember where to stick that left foot once you're up as looking down afterward is not easy.