Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Primo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle With a Bush 
Breakfast Club 
City Slickers 
Crying Flyboys 
Doomsday Birthday 
Eternal Recurrence 
Flyin' Child 
Flying Cowboys 
Grim Aura 
Groan Up 
Halle-Bop 
Hangman 
Hooves! 
Inner Gorilla 
Killer Pillar 
Less Happy Fun Time 
Mildage 
Mirthmobile 
Moving Out 
Primetime To Shine 
Primeval 
Problem Child 
Public Play 
Public Solitude 
Public Suck Shine 
Relative To Standing 
River Run 
Shine 
Squeeze Play 
Squeezing My Will to Live 
Suburban Cowgirls 
Sucking My Will to Live 
Sucking My Will to Squeeze 
Super Happy Fun Time 
Suspended Sentence 
Tater Tot 

Suburban Cowgirls 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 13, 2001
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Just past the crux on Suburban Cowgirls. One more ...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This line chases three bolts to the right end of the ledge above "City Slickers". It involves a very challenging mantle crux past the first bolt. I'll give it an "S" rating because the stance for the second clip is just barely in balance and if you haven't set up correctly you're likely to peel off backwards in a nasty, close-to-the-deck slammer fall. I've never taken that fall, but I've seen all sorts of people struggle with the mantle and pitch off trying to stand up. Getting onto the sloping ledge after the clip is no giveaway either, but that move is toproped by the third clip. Two stars for quality stone and a significantly devious crux.


Protection 

Three bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with "City Slickers").



Comments on Suburban Cowgirls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Olson
Nov 20, 2003

2 stars is a bit much for this route in my oppinion. it is very short and the clips are bad. Also, the movement is not that great either.

By Steve Woods
Jul 21, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Good route, but not sure where the 11c grade comes from. It felt all of 5.12a to me. ;-) The second clip is sketchy, but can be done from the right-hand crimp before comitting to the left-hand crimp sidepull. Powerfull start to technical/balancey crux to awkward mantel.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jun 23, 2008

My two cents on the grade..This short route is considerably easier than City Slickers next door...so obviously this would make it mid-5.11 range..I was getting pumped out on City Slickers, but had plently of juice to tic this one after several burns on the previous..Maybe V-2+..Thanks.

By Luke Childers
Aug 21, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R

This line should get a make-over and be bolted all the way to the top of the wall!! It could be cool and it would make for a harder line. I may check it out this week and see if it would be good. It's just a thought.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Aug 8, 2012

Don't know if you need to mantle on the crux. I think I found a way to balance fingers on the vertical edge above keeping body tension tight and the left leg flagged, standing up is not too hard, just be sure to remember where to stick that left foot once you're up as looking down afterward is not easy.