2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Pitch 1: 11b/c Climb up and over a small roof (gear) and make a weird move to the first bolt. Crank up a seam past several bolts with dicey moves. At the sixth bolt, make a hard move straight up, and then continue straight up (gear & bolts) the cool slab to a two-bolt anchor. 100 feet.
Crossing the river in high water was the crux for me.
Pitch 2: 5.12a Blonde on Blonde pitch: Bob D'Antonio & Ron Olsen: Crank up a flake and seam past two bolts, make a very hard slab move clipping and moving past the third bolt. Cool climbing past five more bolts leads to a two-bolt anchor.
Rap the route doing two-single rope rappels.
Great route that will only get better with a little more cleaning.
Start about 100 feet right of Country Club Crack at a one-bolt anchor (to keep you and the belayer out of the river). Rap from two two-bolt anchors.
12 quickdraws plus gear to a purple (0.5) Camalot.
The 12a slab crux on the second pitch can be bypassed by traversing right, moving up to a headwall, and underclinging back left. Fun moves, but not recommended on lead. Done this way, the pitch becomes solid 5.11 with the crux at the second bolt.
Lots of great moves on this pitch, but it needs more cleaning.