Another classic Ragged testpiece. Start at a roof immediately right of Unconquerable. Pull the roof into some tiny cracks and then climb mostly straight up. This pitch keeps coming at you and is a burly lead. The pro is all there but it's hard to hang and place it. Now that the fixed pins are gone this has become a real test of leading skills.
If you want to TR this (and Unconquerable), locate a pine tree that's about 10 - 15 feet down from the top of the cliff that marks this route and Unconquerable. There is gear near the tree to set an anchor.
Ages ago I failed on this route. Then Henry Barber, who was belaying me with a smile took over the lead and gave me a clinic. Magnificent, both Henry styling in the lead and the route, which is undoubtedly one of the best in CT.
"If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees."
Great advice for all of climbing in Connecticut.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Oct 16, 2010
I took a partial ground fall on this early in my climbing career. A TCU popped out of a slot when I jumped. Whitey saved me by reeling in slack fast enough that the rope took most of the force on a small wire and I only bruised my back and didn't break it on the flat rock below.
Rusty: Were there fixed pins on this route when Barber did the FA?
By Bababata From: New Haven, CT Mar 19, 2012 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Indeed, there are no pins on the route right now. And none are needed - there is good pro to be found all the way to the top. A highly recommended lead - varied and technical climbing, very sustained for the grade. As mentioned in the description, pro can be strenuous to place...
Great climb and safe to lead. The trick to getting the gear to be bomber is to place small cams in the horizontal cracks.I Would definitely consider it a ragged mountain testpiece and a climb that is well worth working on lead.