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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Sub Slab 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Andy Donson, Don Bushey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Andy Donson on Apr 10, 2007

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  • Description 

    Sub Slab climbs the middle of the face left of the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. Combined with Remention, this route provides a mini-Super Slab type experience.
    Sub Slab starts about 20 feet up the ramp from the Slimy Spoon belay below a weakness in the middle of the roof band. Climb carefully up to the roof and stretch up to place a couple of good cams (1-1.5 inch) in an obvious, vertical slot in the roof. Swing up and right (crux) through the roof, then trend up and left on ledges (5.8 s) to the base of an incipient seam that runs up the middle of the face. Follow this (9+) to the top.

    Location 

    This climbs the face left of Slimy Spoon's top pitch.

    Protection 

    3.5 inch down to RPs. Expect run outs above the roof but on easier climbing. There's good 3-3.5 inch cams at the base of the seam.


    Comments on Sub Slab Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 13, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers.
    It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder.