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Middle Cathedral Rock
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Stupid Pet Tricks 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Bennet, Vince Deposque, and Jack Wenzel 1985
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Lou Hibbard on Oct 31, 2011

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Stupid Pet Tricks

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This route is a slab adventure. Perhaps best in fall. In spring need cool temperatures but on my first visit right after snow melt the left over dirt from melted snow left a ball bearing texture on the rock. Very hard in those conditions. Rappel the route.


North Face Apron


In 2006 the first two bolts were good. All other bolts poor. Belay was two 1/4" bolts. Spaced bolts in places - I don't think I found any trad gear.

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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Sep 15, 2012

Fall is indeed the best time to climb on the MCR Apron (and probably most places in the Valley I guess). By mid September the sun is low enough in the sky that the apron receives all-day shade. Ideal for those days in early Fall when it's still pretty hot in the sun.

All bolts were replaced by the ASCA. Unfortunately the fourth bolt has been hit by rockfall (a common occurrence on the MC Apron) and the hanger is flat. You could maybe still thread it with a thin piece of cord? Otherwise it is easy to skip the bolt (and the 5.10 crux after it) by traversing up and right to a scoop, then stepping left to the fifth bolt (5.7 very runout).

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