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 ADVANCED
Shark's Fin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lay Back Crack T 
Shark Bait T 
Shark's Fin T 
Stupid Igits T,S 
True Colors T,S 

Stupid Igits 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Allen Simons
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 585
Submitted By: allen simons on Jun 1, 2003

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Description 

1.3 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube is a dirt pullout on the north side of the road. Walk back east 50 feet to the gully and hike up and north 150 feet to the base of a west-facing wall. This is the Shark's Fin Wall. Stupid Igits is the bolted climb just [right] of the center crack (Shark Bait). Up past two bolts, cling and reach for the slanting crack to the right (stopper placement), smear up past one more bolt to the two [bolt] anchor.

Protection 

3 bolts and a small to medium size stopper to a two [bolt] anchor.


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By Travis Thompson
Dec 28, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hey, Allen, this is a pretty sweet climb. I like how you didn't put a bolt at that crack and left it for a stopper even though it's a small one. Sweet little climb, man!
By allen simons
Jan 6, 2006

....Travis, thanks for the comment on the Shark's Fin Wall. I thought about fixing a piton in that crack but decided a small nut would easily slot. Having climbed it many times now, I usually just climb up to the next bolt, clip and go. At any rate, a bolt would have been way out of place there. Glad you enjoyed the climb, it's one of my fave's in the canyon. Allen
By Chad Kline
Aug 24, 2006

Allen, quick question:

When you talk about accessing this climb and some others at Shark Fin Wall you say "1.3 miles west of the beige siphon tube is a dirt pullout on the north side of the road. Walk back east 50 feet to the gully and hike up and north...."

Is this the dirt pulloff in front of Friendship Seven?

Thanks, Chad
By allen simons
Aug 30, 2006

Yes, it is the same parking as for Friendship Seven, Santa's Little Helpers, Trash Can, and Iron John. allen
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Apr 21, 2009

Fun slab climbing for a quick gettaway.