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 ADVANCED
Altered States Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
Del Tongo T 
Discrete Feat T 
Dropping Out T 
Eagle Roof T 
Latter Day Sinner T 
Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 

Stumpy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Sean Brown and Arie Leeflang? 6/11/2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Arie on Jul 27, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: A poor pic of the line (the dead center splitter) ...

Description 

Named for the odd decapitated (but still thriving) pine at the head of the crack, Stumpy is the obvious splitter seen up-gully from the top of the Betty’s climbs or the last pitch of Altered States. Standing atop Betty’s Altered Elbow the line is obvious, perhaps about 300 vertical feet and a hefty bushwack away. It requested an ascent and we obliged.

If you have previous ascent info let me know and I’ll update it.

The start seemed a bit stiff, consisting of a steep flaring thin-finger crack with gritty rock. A slopey chickenhead is of minor help. Past the steep section the crack slowly widens, easing to 5.9, then fine 5.8 with nearly every potential type of jam being possible as the crack trends from rattly fingers to fist. It’s a bit gritty, so tape up. Double chickenheads near the top give your feet a rest. Pass stumpy and belay in cracks or the tree above. Walk off or rap from ol’ Stumpy.


Location 

The preferred approach is to climb one of the Betty’s routes or both pitches of Altered States. This reaches a ledgy area where you can see the crack up-gully on the left. The route should be obvious- bushwack, scramble, and roll you way to the base of the climb approximately 300 vertical feet higher. Expect about 20 minutes from the top of Betty.

Or, alternatively hump you way from the road up Altered States Gully, avoiding any potential climbing by sticking to the gully. But that is ill-advised.

Protection 

Good ol’ standard rack to fist size. A bunch of smaller cams for the start would be key. Perhaps doubles in hands.


Comments on Stumpy Add Comment
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By mountainsense
Jul 27, 2011

Nice work, gentlemen! S
By tenesmus
Jul 28, 2011

No kidding! Every time I go up there I look over at that and think... Maybe next time. Glad you got on it.