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Hard Rock
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Stump 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Duane Anderton, Todd Draper
Page Views: 2,882
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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BETA PHOTO: The Forgotten Wall. Next-to-west-most wall at Hard...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a steep, almost vertical climb that is mostly pockets and jugs.

The technical crux is probably getting to and clipping the first bolt; for me the harder part was clipping the chains because the pockets get smaller and scarcer and you have to climb a bit higher than you'd like in order to comfortably clip them.

There is an interesting, rounded, wooden "hold" just after and to the right of the second bolt: it is the remains of a shrub stem.

Location 

This is the left-most of three routes on the south-facing, next-to-west-most section of Hard Rock. The least-strenuous way to get there is to follow the trail when it turns right to go to the main Hard Rock wall (west-facing). Go north (left) along the main wall; you will turn west and by staying along the base of the rock you will end up at the base of these three newer Hard Rock routes.

Alternatively, don't turn right to the main Hard Rock area and instead continue straight to the base of the wall you see ahead of you as you come up the trail to the Hard Rock/White Wave/Escape Buttress areas.

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors.


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By Matthew Pecsok
From: provo, ut
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

worth doing once because of the cool wooden hold/stump. the crux is probably the start. as the info says clipping the chains is a bit nerve racking since the holds aren't quite where you want them. the grade seems pretty accurate.
By Chauncemaster
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Getting to the first two bolts seems more like a 5.9 but it gets a bit easier higher up. wooden stump is definitely a welcome hold.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Careful on this route! I think a fall while trying to clip the second bolt could be serious. Also think its more like 5.9.
By Tim Moore
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Getting to the first few bolts is definitely the hardest part of the route. Probably .9- moves. The rest is fairly straight forward with good pockets to be found throughout the entire route. A good warm up for the two routes to the right of it and a great belay spot. Thanks for whoever took the time to put those wooden holds in
By Kristopher Bartlett
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 2, 2015

Agreed that a fall at the second bolt could be dangerous. In fact, there were a some guys up there in March telling me that their friend broke his ankle in that spot a few days prior. (He fell while clipping apparently.) I'm not one to choke the chicken that often, I'd rather take the whip usually, but after hearing their story I couldn't help it right there! The polished limestone feet aren't reassuring either, though this route's no where near as polished as some of the climbs around the corner.
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