5.12+ climbers rejoice! Here is a crag for you. While there are some easier routes here on the short side (Bergseite), they alll suck. The action is on the side that you see from the road. Warm-ups start at UIAA 8 (5.12) and route difficulty extends up to 10+ (5.13+). The routes typically climb edges, though there are occasional pockets. The routes are also typically slightly overhanging.
From Nürnberg, head east to Hersbruck and north towards Neuhaus. 600m before reaching Entendorf, park on the right in a pull-off. Walk back 300m on the street in the direction you just drove and you'll see a little road on the left. Walk in here and on your left you'll find a path to the crag.
Nice climbing up polished rock. There are several good holds breaking up the crimpy, technical climbing, with one relatively useless rest down low and another not-so-good rest up high after the crux move. The crux is having enough gas to finish it out.Climb up like you're going to start Simon, but continue up and right to the anchor. There's a 2nd pitch which goes at 9- (5.12/+) when you stay to the right, but it's seldom done (good though!)....[more]Browse More Classics in International