5.12+ climbers rejoice! Here is a crag for you. While there are some easier routes here on the short side (Bergseite), they alll suck. The action is on the side that you see from the road. Warm-ups start at UIAA 8 (5.12) and route difficulty extends up to 10+ (5.13+). The routes typically climb edges, though there are occasional pockets. The routes are also typically slightly overhanging.
From Nürnberg, head east to Hersbruck and north towards Neuhaus. 600m before reaching Entendorf, park on the right in a pull-off. Walk back 300m on the street in the direction you just drove and you'll see a little road on the left. Walk in here and on your left you'll find a path to the crag.
This route is a bit confusing. Begin by walking up to the Bergseite and walk all the way around to the far right side. Begin climbing on the moss-covered rock and start traversing in so that you're now crossing onto the left side of the Talseite. Clip the anchor of Linke Talseite and continue traversing to the right clip the anchors with a carabiner on each. Continue traversing to the right to get to the anchor of Simon, or just go up to the first bolt above Simon. Continue straight up. Either l...[more]Browse More Classics in International