5.12+ climbers rejoice! Here is a crag for you. While there are some easier routes here on the short side (Bergseite), they alll suck. The action is on the side that you see from the road. Warm-ups start at UIAA 8 (5.12) and route difficulty extends up to 10+ (5.13+). The routes typically climb edges, though there are occasional pockets. The routes are also typically slightly overhanging.
From Nürnberg, head east to Hersbruck and north towards Neuhaus. 600m before reaching Entendorf, park on the right in a pull-off. Walk back 300m on the street in the direction you just drove and you'll see a little road on the left. Walk in here and on your left you'll find a path to the crag.
The name means "Easy 8", but there are definitely easier 8's out there than this one! This route is more about hard moves than endurance, thereby making it a solid and justified 8.There are several cruxes on this route in my opinion, but I have yet only done it once and because it was difficult for me, I didn't flow through the route and wasn't able to pick out a distinctive crux.It's a good route and a good warm-up for some of the 5.13s here....[more]Browse More Classics in International