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No Money Down (Left)
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Student Loan 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kasia Weglarz
Page Views: 1,459
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Pulling through the roof
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the arete right of No Money Down (5.10c), then up the slab to the roof.... Undercling and crimp your way to a big move to a good hold and to the shared anchors of The Coveted, 5.11b.

I've heard this route called 5.11a, but I think its crux is harder, so I called it 5.11b....


Location 

Just right of No Money Down (5.10c).... Climb the arete to the slab and roof to old anchors of The Coveted (5.11b).


Protection 

6 bolts to chains....



Photos of Student Loan Slideshow Add Photo
Ludovic Maire fighting the roof.
Ludovic Maire fighting the roof.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2013
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 16, 2007

The Coveted has been deleted per the request of the submitter. What is the history of Student Loan, in regard to The Coveted? Does anyone know who did what first and why The Coveted was erased by Student Loan?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 17, 2007

I am under the impression that the original line (The Coveted 5.11b) went up what is now Thou Shalt Not Covet (5.9) and broke left and finished up what is now Student Loan (5.11a).... I did the link up, and it didn't flow too well (I used a piece of gear and a few long runners....

I did get my info from a website, so it could be incorrect. So please correct me if I'm wrong....

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

You are correct Lee. When the route was cleaned, the Coveted was found to be pretty contrived feeling, therefore anchors were placed more to the right, resulting in Though Shalt Not Covet. An easier (for most) way to the old anchors was found coming in from the left, which I bolted for Kasia Weglarz to do, hence "Student Loan". The Coveted (originally done by Ed Suel (sp?) I believe, or another fellow Rhodie Loady) can still be done of course, but it is not too highly recommended.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The bomb,Jay? lol. It's not that bad!

By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
May 14, 2010

The Coveted FA was M. Johnson, T. Armstrong, and J. Shimberg August 1988

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

..Mac Johnson of Mac's Traverse, Lincoln Woods fame. Thanks, Glenn.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 15, 2010

Yeah, maybe I'm being a bit harsh. It was wet when I climbed it, so maybe that influenced my experience. I'll change it to one star.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Jay, Student Loan was lead by Kasia Weglarz. The coveted was put up by Mac and co. The Coveted starts way to the right and eventually angles on the upper face towards the anchor using a bit of gear. Student Loan starts to the left and angles up. They only share the anchor and the last move or 2. Thou shalt not Covet is basically the Coveted but with an anchor straight above instead of doing the 11b traverse at the top to get to the original anchors.

The Coveted should probably have it's own listing for historical reasons, maybe with Though Shalt listed as a variation

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

So why was the FA information changed to being incorrect? Glen posted the people who did The Coveted, not this route. Not that I particularly care, but it is now inaccurate. The Coveted was not erased by student Loan, they just share the very last move and anchors.

I was there just after The Coveted was put up, and in fact was able to get a TR burn on it since they still had the rope up, so I know where it went. I just couldn't remember after the years who exactly had done it.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 2, 2010

I made the change Mark. Things move slowly here when the weather's nice :)

Why don't you add The Coveted?

By S. Neoh
Jul 24, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Thanks to a tick mark left by someone else, I found the route easier today than I remembered. Hanging the last draw is strenuous as ever, however. Perhaps 11a/b (harder than 3 Easy Pieces, Heuco, Debbie, Tropicana P1 but easier than Short Wave, Little Big Man, Buried Treasure).
Thanks, Mark for cleaning and bolting it. Just wish the slab is harder.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 14, 2012

I was amazed, after doing Bolt Line and Cold Turkey, how many bolts there were on the slab section of this climb.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 15, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Bolt Line and Cold Turkey are taller, with longer slab sections, hence the bolts could be more spaced out. Student Loan's slab portion is shorter and closer to the ground. Probably when I bolted it, I was balancing ground fall potential vs. having one more bolt and having them kind of close together. We frown on bolting with ground fall potential at Rumney.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 16, 2012

Oh, I'm not complaining. I was just surprised by the contrast :p

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 3, 2013

A few weeks ago I had taken the fall after the last clip, figured it out, said "damn, oh well, next time for sure", and effortlessly made the final movies to the crag top.

Well, next time came around and I floundered! To the point where I couldn't even figure out how to make it to the anchors. I usually see my blunder after sitting for a second but this one made me tuck my tail. Even after aiding to the anchor, I couldn't see the move this time. Just smear above the roof as you bust straight up from the deep horizontals above? or is there a trick to make it feel the grade?

By S. Neoh
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WARNING, Onsight Spoiler -


I am quite short so my way may not work for everyone. There is a key left hand hold about straight up from the last bolt if I remember correctly. The last time I was on the route, a kind soul had ticked it so it was easy to spot. There is of course the big high foothold over the roof off to the right. What I do is use the ticked left hand hold, high right foot, smear left foot on almost nothing, right hand up to a small but good crimp below the top and then pop the left hand (or right, I do not recall exactly) to a shallowly dished hold over the top, above the anchors. Be careful, the hold over the top remains wet for a day or two after rain. On redpoint attempt, I was very surprised when my hand came flying off after I thought I had the "clipping jug". A nice fall but safe but only if your belayer does not suck in all the slack and slam your knee caps into the roof :) I was lucky to have a skilled and alert belayer to catch my surprise fall.
Yeah, I would not argue with a grade of .11b for this climb. Mark is keeping us honest and our inflated egos in check.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 4, 2013

Thanks! That sounds about what I imagined it should be but couldn't quite seem to make it work. I tossed a few desperate hucks to the lip only to peel off from the dampness. I told myself I was better than throwing for it but couldn't put it together, hah! I'm stubborn and will be back soon. :)

By superkick
From: West Hartford, CT
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Why such low stars? I thought pullign through the roof and the final moves before the anchors were fantastically fun.

By Zane Dordai
Aug 22, 2013

Low stars because it's 10-15 feet of climbing, often wet, and when not wet very dirty. I cleaned it up but it will no doubt be dirty again by now. Definitely a few fun moves in the roof, but some awkward and scrunchy ones for me as well. Worth doing though if you're in the area and want something like no money down with some harder moves.