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Boulder the mini-crux off the ground over the mini-roof and then romp up the slab. Work on the right set-up moves into the roof for the lip encounter. Once your feet are above the lip, relax, get a stance and clip those anchors. Possibly a tad harder than 10b, or just a good stout 10b.
The middle of Scud Wall, obvious lower and upper roofs define the root. Just right of Duck Soup (5.9).
6 bolts to anchors.
|By Wesley Ashwood|
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Maybe that one roof move is 10c, but the rest is cruisy.
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Aug 2, 2010
The start can be tricky if you don't use a hard to see hold.
From: Denver, CO
Jul 11, 2011
Wow I need to practice pulling roofs as this one got me! Hit the pocket high and to the left, moved through all three pockets on the right, but couldn't yank my long body high enough to get my damn feet up!! Super cruz up to that part though. Watch out 10 leaders it'll get ya!!
|By Jason Albino|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
Did this on our first trip to Sinks in July 2013.
As a climber who loves steep but short bouldery sections, this route was right up my alley. A great rest stance under the final roof lets you work out the sequence and downclimb if you don't get it initially. After reaching blindly over the last bolt under the roof and finding nothing, I located the right-ward traverse setup and then increasingly better holds after committing over the roof from there.
If you take that route, just go for it and keep moving! The holds above the lip get sequentially better if you commit, and the feeling of pulling that left leg over to the good edge feels great once you get it.