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Big Toe to Great Chimney
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Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Stuck Knee 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,469
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Vinny, with pro.

Description 

Start in the north inside corner of the recessed section, climb 15 feet to the first ledge. Then up a crack to the base of a narrow chimney. Climb Chimney (crux) to the ledge above. Pull up over the overhanging ledge and finish in 12 foot inside corner


Location 

Right near Great Chimney. Just to the right of Double Jeopardy.


Protection 

standard rack



Photos of Stuck Knee Slideshow Add Photo
Vinny
Vinny
Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Mike Sohasky
Mike Sohasky
Reinke demonstrating his wide crack technique.
Reinke demonstrating his wide crack technique.
Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Photo 2 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Photo 2 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Reinke hot dogging. This is before he realized his knee actually was stuck!
Reinke hot dogging. This is before he realized his...
Stuck Knee 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Stuck Knee 5.7
Burt leads "Stuck Knee"
Burt leads "Stuck Knee"
Ryan on stuck knee. Photo: Peter Beck
Ryan on stuck knee. Photo: Peter Beck
Photo 1 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Photo 1 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Ryan on stuck knee.
Ryan on stuck knee.
Photo 3 Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13. <br />
Photo 3 Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Comments on Stuck Knee Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Jan 10, 2009

I was belaying someone on this route for there first trad lead and well... just like the name states, his knee got stuck in the large crack on top of the route. He was struggling for a good 5 minutes trying to get it out. I felt rather sorry for the guy.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 10, 2009

That story made me laugh my ass of Bob. Thx for sharing.

By pwags
Oct 21, 2009

This route is a very good lead, worthy of 3 stars IMO. A #5 camalot or friend is greatly appreciated for the last 15 feet.

Wags

By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Anyone ever attempt the face to the left of this?

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

good sustained offwidth climbing..#5 and 4.5 camalots

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 18, 2013

Short video of Doug Hemken leading the final little upper corner of Stuck Knee route West Bluff 6-16-13.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I can't believe I never climbed this before. A great lead for the grade!