Stuck In Another Dimension 5.11a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Andrew Barry, Eric Anderson, Steve Lancaster (June 1985) |
| Submitted By: | DaveB on May 15, 2007 |
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Stuck In Another Dimension (5.11a). New River Gorg...
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Description Burly, committing start (crux 1, w/PG-13 pro), cruise crack, power directly through roof/flare (crux 2), finish. Be ready to jam!...mostly hands, some fingers. Also, a few nicely-placed, positive edges. Good rests when needed.
Location From Junkyard Wall proper, walk left past New River Gunks, Team Jesus, The Entertainer. Follow trail around and past two corners. Looking right, spot an intimidating crack with roof on the right-side of the face. The route begins directly below (in flaring cave).
Protection Besides the exposed start, pro is good most of the way. Back-up when preparing to surmount the roof. Small-med-large cams...doubled in several sizes (easily determined from ground view). A few runners and/or draws to alleviate rope drag. Anchors up and left.
BETA PHOTO: Stuck in Another Dimension
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"Thank God" jam after burly and exposed chimney st...
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Roof slot crux.
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Stuck and pushing my first piece way on up there. ...
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peeling out of the OW crux
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| Comments on Stuck In Another Dimension |
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By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 17, 2007
rating: 5.11a PG13
| Incredible route. The bottom crux is a tricky off-width. Topping out can be little dirty, too. |
By Sam Stephens
Jan 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| I wanted to puke when I got down from this one. Great route though. Really lives up to its name.
EDIT 3/21/11:
Finally sent this thing this weekend.
Don't need anything bigger than a #3 for the bottom (#4 if you're shorter maybe). A single rack will get you up it just fine, I wound up slamming a #1 high and deep at the offwidth section towards the top, it's out of the way unlike placing a bigger cam there.
And FWIW, this route is not PG13, you can get gear everywhere you need it. Hell, you can tape a cam to a stick and shove it high to protect the awkwardness at the bottom if you're really that worried about it. |
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Jun 27, 2010
| Got the on-sight last week. Woo-Hoo!!! Over shadows all the other 5.11's I got that week. This is an amazing route!!! Committing and very difficult moves open this stupendous adventure. A good rest below the final roof made the on-sight possible (for me that is).
I used a #4 camelot in the beginning, then removed it as I passed it (using a #3 a few feet above) and re-used the #4 on the 2nd crux at the roof. |
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Feb 10, 2011
| i don't now about the PG-13....we got some great (albeit big) gear for that section.... |
By DJ Shalvey
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Definitely not PG-13. Gear is in all the right spots. The only strenuous spot to place some gear is in the middle of the off-width section in the roof. Other than that it protects super well. |
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