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Stuck cam on Razor Worm @ T-wall
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Apr 14, 2013
Top of second pitch on the Prow at Linville Gorge
I had a #3 BD camalot walk on me and get stuck about one third of the way up the route. I'll offer $30 plus shipping if someone can retrieve and be so kind to get it back to me. Otherwise its yours if you want it. Russ Moore
From Cumberland Gap, TN
Joined Oct 27, 2012
7 points
Apr 17, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
You should stick with climbing choss at Crowders. The pieces all just pull right out. :) Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
877 points
Apr 18, 2013
Top of second pitch on the Prow at Linville Gorge
Hmmm, what's more terrifying...placing gear behind semi detached crumbling rock or large pieces of it falling down all day?

Back on topic, anyone have any tricks for getting large cams unstuck? I'm heading back this weekend and will try to get it free. The piece is just overcammed but the flat side of the cam lobes weren't touching anything and its in a fairly parallel part of the crack. I'm assuming its still there.
Russ Moore
From Cumberland Gap, TN
Joined Oct 27, 2012
7 points
Apr 18, 2013
Top of the arches
1. Look at how it should come out. Pulling downwards, or outwards? Things to think about.

2. Jiggle and wiggle

3. Patience.

4. Spit water on it

5. Use a nut tool to individually torque lobes. You can get it right on the lobe, and by rotating the nut tool lever the individual lobes off away from the rock (pivoting it off the rock)

6. Jiggle and wiggle it more

7. If it should come out outwards, but is facing down, retract the lobes as hard as you can, take your nut tool and use it to rip out the cam horizontally

8. If it's deep in the crack, two nuts can be used to loop around the trigger bar to retract it.

9. more patience.

Good luck!
David Gealy
From Berkeley, California
Joined Sep 19, 2011
15 points
Apr 18, 2013
Chuck in the final mellow section of Te Dum at the...
Be advised T-Wall is closed for hunting on Saturday.

For overcammed cams, beating on it is the name of the game. See if you can vibrate that sucker to a more favorable spot. (That's what she said!) If it's behind a flexy flake, you can try prying the flake a bit wider -- either with a pry bar or sometimes just by hanging on another cam placed behind the flake.
Chuck Parks
From Atlanta, GA
Joined Jan 30, 2008
1,557 points
Apr 18, 2013
was on rm yesterday did not see your cam 123654
Joined Feb 15, 2013
0 points
Apr 18, 2013
Bummer. Zip tie around trigger through the thumb loop helps a lot. Snoopy
Joined Oct 26, 2011
89 points
Apr 18, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
Where the heck were you Chuck when a man got left behind?! Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
877 points
Apr 18, 2013
getting ready for the final roof series
a cam reconnaissance mission ought to include a wire coat hanger, a pliers, and a nut tool Calvino
From Newhalem, WA
Joined May 1, 2010
200 points
Apr 18, 2013
Top of second pitch on the Prow at Linville Gorge
I think Chuck had a legitimate reason for not being out there that day.

Thanks everyone for the advice and update.
Russ Moore
From Cumberland Gap, TN
Joined Oct 27, 2012
7 points


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