So about four weeks ago, I bought a pair of shoes, some chalk and a chalk bag, and a crash pad. I went out to Carter Lake and found Little Boulder. I didn't know it was called Little Boulder at the time but I was helpfully informed once I asked on MP. I did the problem apparently called 'Little Face'(I found that out today via MPs Route Guide) which runs straight up the center of the crack. This is considered a V-Easy (I don't know what that means exactly). It took me a while to figure this out but it was my first time climbing ever and I got it twice after lots of failure and experimentation. Then a couple guys came along and we had a conversation about it. They told me the problem actually started under the overhang to the right (they also said that section was probably a V3, but I doubt that very much now). At that point I was exhausted and couldn't even match hands on the first hold past the start of the overhang.
Fast forward to four weeks later. I've been bouldering in the gym for the past four weeks, 3 or 4 times a week. I've seen some major improvement in my strength and ability. I was pretty excited to get back out to this problem and crush it. It didn't exactly happen that way.
I spent the first 6 hours of my day at Eldo on the approaches to the West and the East faces of Redgarden Wall (beautiful place). Then I headed to Carter Lake and got there around 4pm and headed to Little Boulder to complete "Little Crack'. I got out from the overhang pretty easily and thought from there it'd be a cake walk. Not so. I feel off repeatedly and at various places. I could get all the pieces of the problem, but not the whole thing at once. Then, I got it! The whole thing! I was so happy I got it, but disappointed and confused that it was so hard. I tried it again and failed, and failed, and failed. I got so pumped that I had to change my plan and work with different holds both for my hands and my feet once I got out from the overhang and onto the face (which was still the easiest part for me). Finally I got it again with the slightly different plan of attack. I think once my ability to crimp lessened as I got more fatigued (probably from dehydrations, the 90 degree heat and a lot of hard work) and I had to change my route I started focusing on footwork more which helped me though the problem even though I was tired. And I see that as a good thing. But...
'Little Crack' (starting at the overhang) and 'Little Face' (starting in the center but otherwise the same route from what I can tell) are both rated V-Easy. The "consensus" on the MP Route Guide is that 'Little Crack' is a V-0. Does anyone with experience on this boulder have any input to how accurate this rating is? I only ask because I found it really freaking hard! I'm not looking for a higher rating to this problem to make me feel good. I'm just trying to assess how hard bouldering, in general, really is. Does anyone have any suggestions for other V-0s in the area I could work on to get a comparison? I'm glad I can complete it, but it's pretty frustrating that I more often fail than succeed, and also that I've seen so much progress in the gym, but it doesn't seem to translate well to this problem. Perhaps my height (6'5") is a benefit, or perhaps it's a hindrance.
Any input or constructive criticism would be appreciated.
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