|Below The Old New Place
This excellent route would be 4 stars if it were a bit longer. With excellent rock, great holds, and fun moves this one is a must do. Its given 12b in the Samet guide, and felt a bit harder than the other 12a's here (but it was the last route of the day, so who knows).
Begin by scrambling up the ledge to the right of the route's base. Good holds lead to the first bolt and a long reach to a really good crimp to get established on the wall. Head up the prow with long reaches. Just below the 3rd bolt cop a dubious rest and clip with some difficulty. Move up to two really poor pockets that look much better from below, hike up your feet and soar for the obvious pocket. Its possible to do this move statically, but kinda defeats the purpose. Above the dyno the route slabs out but the holds diminish as well, and you never really get that finishing jug you're hoping for. An awkward sequence leads into the flaring dihedral and some dirty jugs. Clipping the anchor can be a bit difficult. Your best bet is to climb high and clip low.
Far right end of BTONP. 3rd bolted route from the right.
4 Bolts, 2 BA.