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East Face
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Birth Simulator 
Chambered Nautilus 
Coral Bells Arete 
Daily Diatribe 
Deltoid Force 
Leftoverture 
MEGA 
Mega Worthy 
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Oopsie 
Overture 
PTFE 
Pump Up the Jam 
Raspberry Ripple 
Strong Persuader 
Sweet and Low 
Teflon Technique 
Touch of Teflon 
Worthy Whoopsie 

Strong Persuader 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1987
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 25, 2005
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Description 

This climbs the lichen-covered, broken, loose, rotten, and hard to protect face just left of Leftoverture. Run it out for 30 feet, and then start following whatever cracks seem worthy of your protection until you climb through the small roof band. Above this band there seemed to be some horizontal cracks worthy of protection, but by this time I had bailed left to the new route's anchors just right of Chambered Nautilus. I may try again on the day I want to die. Again, maybe a bit harsh, but I would definitely give this route two thumbs down.


Protection 

Bring a prayer, because not much else protects this choss-pile. That might be a little strong, but this is one of the worst routes I have done in the Cottonwoods. A #5 Camalot (I don't have one) would protect the small roof. Other than that creative nutting and some small cams will help. A .75 Camalot was the only good piece I placed and it was my first at 30 feet off the ground. No anchors, so bring gear for make-your-own anchors.



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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 26, 2009

I didn't find this route to be dirty, rotten or loose. Or for that matter difficult to protect. To the contrary, it was a nice .8 which I wouldn't have normally gotten on aside from the crowds had much of the other lines occupied.

This route is located between Chambered Natilus and Leftoverture and is a face. Otherwise, the rest of the description doesn't much apply.

A handful of bolts protect this nice low angle line to a chain anchor.

Enjoy :)

By Brian in SLC
Jul 3, 2009

Susan, my bet is you did Sweet and Low. Bolted face? Just right of the semi chossy lookin' corner (Birth Simulater)? That's it.
Cheers!

By Brian in SLC
Jun 11, 2010

I don't think so. I've always thought Strong Persuader was to the right of that tree at the base, and, very much closer to Leftoverture.

Been a work in progress over a season or two?