Stroken' the Chicken
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BETA PHOTO: Stroken' the Chicken and surrounding routes
On the recommended routes list in the Yoder/Ford guidebook. Stem your way up between a dihedral and pillar, placing gear into the dihedral crack. This route would be very popular if someone would put some anchors on it, or at least some bolts to belay from at the top. There is a large chockstone at ~70 feet that has slings around it. You could stop here, or continue to the top and build a gear anchor at 100 ft.
Between the two sport 5.9s Whipsaw and Throbbing Gristle. If you continue to the top, walk a few routes to the East (climber's right) to an obvious rap station.
Standard rack, on the bigger size. The crack is fairly uniform at about #2 Camalot most of the way.