|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||nicholas bujak on Feb 9, 2010|
|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Stroke it Gently||Add Comment|
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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
The upper pitches are definitely confusing; here's some beta if you want it. On pitch 3, I went up and left from the belay to a diagonal thin crack, climbed straight above that almost to another thin crack which looked chossy, and then on instinct stepped around the corner to the right to find a hidden, old bolt. Then, it's steep fun pockets to the belay ledge. This pitch is only about 5.7/8 but there is very little worthwhile protection. The last pitch does not move into the chimney but goes directly up the prow, runout but moderate, past one more bolt. Then up and right to the top.
The hanging belay anchor on top of pitch two is two very old rusty bolts (see picture above) and is very scary, especially considering how little pro there is on the third pitch. You'd be doing yourself and everyone else a favor to bring a drill and add at least one good bolt. These pitches could also be combined with a 60, which might be a good way to go if the bolts are bad and you use lots of runners. Also, a screamer or two could give some peace of mind
Great route with incredible views on the route and the approach. Pitch one is fun, pitch two is challenging & high quality, pitch three steep, exciting, and super exposed. Good rock on all pitches.
Nov 9, 2010
Pitch three has about a 30 foot runout. Thankfully, the rock is solid. Great climb!
Also, when I was up there several weeks ago, I noticed that someone added a bolt to the belay at the top of pitch 2. No longer do you have to trust your life to those two old, rusty pieces of bed metal.
By Frank Hill
Nov 17, 2010
|Larry Treiber and I made the first ascent of Stroke It Gently way back around 1977. Nobody much cared at the time, good to see folks are still enjoying it. Will post some photos when I get a chance|