|Barks Canyon Wall
|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
Second pitch is the crux may even be a 10b. Starts out on a prominent crack that has a prominent piton close to the bottom. Its just left of the tough looking bolted route up over the overhang. That overhanging route is rated 5.11. Second pitch is obvious and visible from the ground. It's an left arching flairing crack that starts on a ledge. The third and fourth pitches are not as obvious but wander up to the top. There is no anchor on top of the fourth pitch and the downclimb to the anchors for lowering is a little exposed. I helpd my partner down by providing her with a belay. The walk off at times involves some scrambling but was generally not too difficult. We did it in the dark. LOL>
Barks Canyon left side of wall has several climbs on it. There is a 5.11b "Bandito Route" 3 pitches partially bolted line (starts on slab with rivet missing bolt to overhang protected by at least one old bolt) that looks tough and to the left of it is the 5.6 start to "Stroke it Gently" 10b, "The Long Road" 5.9 and "Glory Road" 5.7 all these climbs are four pitches, all start on the 5.6 crack protected with gear and two pitons. Further left I think there are two more climbs. The first one is called "Big Bruno"5.9 4 pitches (5.9,5.8,5.7,?). The second I think is "The Long Lead" 5.8 4 pitches.
Basic Rack. You could probably leave the micro nuts at home. I did not mean that to be a pun.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
The upper pitches are definitely confusing; here's some beta if you want it. On pitch 3, I went up and left from the belay to a diagonal thin crack, climbed straight above that almost to another thin crack which looked chossy, and then on instinct stepped around the corner to the right to find a hidden, old bolt. Then, it's steep fun pockets to the belay ledge. This pitch is only about 5.7/8 but there is very little worthwhile protection. The last pitch does not move into the chimney but goes directly up the prow, runout but moderate, past one more bolt. Then up and right to the top.
The hanging belay anchor on top of pitch two is two very old rusty bolts (see picture above) and is very scary, especially considering how little pro there is on the third pitch. You'd be doing yourself and everyone else a favor to bring a drill and add at least one good bolt. These pitches could also be combined with a 60, which might be a good way to go if the bolts are bad and you use lots of runners. Also, a screamer or two could give some peace of mind
Great route with incredible views on the route and the approach. Pitch one is fun, pitch two is challenging & high quality, pitch three steep, exciting, and super exposed. Good rock on all pitches.
Nov 9, 2010
Pitch three has about a 30 foot runout. Thankfully, the rock is solid. Great climb!
Also, when I was up there several weeks ago, I noticed that someone added a bolt to the belay at the top of pitch 2. No longer do you have to trust your life to those two old, rusty pieces of bed metal.
|By Frank Hill|
Nov 17, 2010
Larry Treiber and I made the first ascent of Stroke It Gently way back around 1977. Nobody much cared at the time, good to see folks are still enjoying it. Will post some photos when I get a chance