Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 739 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


3 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Note: The start is often seeping, but the locking jams and stemming feet provide for a secure climb despite any dampness.

This is a pretty good climb with good moves, solid rock, great position, exposure and scenery. Furthermore, the protection is great, so don't let it intimidate you- it is a good route to push your grade on. There is a little of everything on this route- underclings, stemming, jamming, smearing, liebacks and face-climbing etc…

Follow the obvious crack and corner systems to a large undercling flake, traversing right under that to reach a large bulge split by a clean thin-hands jamcrack. A 1.5" - 2" cam or thereabouts protects the crux from below or above. If you will be on-edge gradewise, carry an extra of each of these. Pull through the crack (crux) and head on up and left through a more moderate crack system and onto a ledge with a set of glue-in anchors.

As for the grade... The route was originally rated 11c, but people who can jam well or those with small hands may find it significantly easier. At Long Dong harder cracks are generally over-graded (I thought this one was 10c or 10d, personally).

Location Suggest change

Head on about 200 feet South of where the trail intercepts the flat rockbed. At the far right side of the inset amphitheatre in Golden Valley there is an overhanging, left-facing corner. String Bikini follows the smaller corner and arete system to the outside of that inset.

Protection Suggest change

standard rack to 2" (doubles #1-2)
Titanium (2017)

Photos

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