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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Strictly From Nowhere 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959
Page Views: 7,802
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (178)
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the roof

Description 

The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!

P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.

P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.

P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).

Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.

Protection 

Standard Rack.

Location 

The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.

Link-ups 

Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:

1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.

2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of Shockley's Ceiling, if the crowds allow.



Photos of Strictly From Nowhere Slideshow Add Photo
Hal Chorny pulling the hang on "Strictly".
Hal Chorny pulling the hang on "Strictly".
finishing the roof
finishing the roof
roof section of Strictly's
roof section of Strictly's
Breanna working her way through the jugfest that is Strictly from Nowhere.
Breanna working her way through the jugfest that i...
Unknown climber pulling the roof at the top of P1
Unknown climber pulling the roof at the top of P1
From Nowhere to Jugs
From Nowhere to Jugs
The finishing corner of Pitch 1. Super fun and more intimidating than hard
The finishing corner of Pitch 1. Super fun and mor...
The final moves of the first pitch of Strictly's. Jug haul!
The final moves of the first pitch of Strictly's. ...
Approaching the Strictly crux.
Approaching the Strictly crux.
Finishing up P1 of Strictly From Nowhere with items of luxury in the pack for top of cliff relaxation  <br /> <br />Photo by Simon Thompson
Finishing up P1 of Strictly From Nowhere with item...
Melissa on Strictly
Melissa on Strictly

Comments on Strictly From Nowhere Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CONDITION REPORT 
Beware of snake. On June 1, 2014 we were the first party on climb just before 9 AM. Half way up leading P1 I encountered a brown snake that looked like copperhead on a small ledge. We came very close as I could not see what is on the ledge from below, but the snake was already crawling away in crack on left.
By rogerbenton
Jun 16, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
That copperhead is still there as of this morning (6/15).
He hangs out on a small ledge with a tuft of grass sticking out.
He was shedding his skin today so he's only getting bigger....
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did the initial variation, it really makes this climb even more classic!
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

An excellent climb! Crux is the roof, bring some small cams. Protect your follower after the crux, otherwise, it's a swing into air.
By S. Neoh
Apr 11, 2011

Many years ago, I did this climb and Shockley's in the same afternoon. I thought this climb was better and more interesting than Shockley's, no disrespect to the man.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011

With the Oscar variation this is the best 5.7 in the gunks.
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, SY
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Holy amazing climb. A MUST do.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 20, 2014

One of the best 5.7s I've done anywhere. Although it did not look that great from the belay, the second pitch is also excellent, with true, legit 5.4 jugs over roofs.