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Strict Scrutiny 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Justin Hayes
Page Views: 1,840
Submitted By: Andrew Palmer on Dec 19, 2008

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Description 

Fun climbing on small, small holds. Some interesting and low percentage moves lead to the traverse at the top of Dark Star into Paradox.

Although the climb is routinely published with the 5.14a grade, many have suggested that 5.13d may be more appropriate.


Location 

Located on the far right side of New Wave Wall, on the black face - it's the climb directly in front of you as you arrive at New Wave.

Strict Scrutiny follows Dark Star and then heads right into the crux of Paradox.


Protection 

8 fixed draws to the anchors.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 21, 2008
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

This is a great route, and in my opinion it is at least one letter grade harder than Dark Star. I've been able to link up to the top of Dark Star on many occasions, but continuing on the the higher anchors has been a battle.

So, I'd say if you give Dark Star 13c, the SS should be 13d. If you give Dark Star 13d, the SS is 14a, etc. But whatever, Strict Scrutiny is a cool route that actually climbs like an endurancy sport route, unlike many of Rumney's boulder problems.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Sep 27, 2010

Some add'l beta:

Traverse into SS after 7th draw on DS (from the good rest jug). To do so prior, would probably merit 14a.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 30, 2013

i changed the grade on this since it is pretty well agreed on these days that it's just shy of 5.14...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I probably agree with 13d, but ten people have recorded an ascent of Strict Scrutiny on 8a.nu, and all have given it 14a.

By Brian Nugent
Aug 14, 2013

By Joe Terravecchia
Aug 26, 2013

I've only been on this once. Great climbing but it seemed soft even at 13d. Surprised that so many people call it 14a.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I think the grade discrepancy might say more about 8a.nu than it does about the route itself. :)

By Joe Terravecchia
Aug 26, 2013

Absolutely.