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Black Dog Crack 
Dark Star 
Daytripper, The 
Night Crawler 
Paradox 
Retrospade 
Roaring Silence 
Salley's Alley 
Sam Spade 
Schist Another Sport Climb 
Short Wave 
Smokestack 
Strict Scrutiny 
Ten of Spades 
Vallee Daze 
Weevil Knevil 

Strict Scrutiny 

5.13d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.13d [details]
FA: Justin Hayes
Submitted By: Andrew Palmer on Dec 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Fun climbing on small, small holds. Some interesting and low percentage moves lead to the traverse at the top of Dark Star into Paradox.

Although the climb is routinely published with the 5.14a grade, many have suggested that 5.13d may be more appropriate.


Location 

Located on the far right side of New Wave Wall, on the black face - it's the climb directly in front of you as you arrive at New Wave.

Strict Scrutiny follows Dark Star and then heads right into the crux of Paradox.


Protection 

8 fixed draws to the anchors.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 21, 2008
rating: 5.13d

This is a great route, and in my opinion it is at least one letter grade harder than Dark Star. I've been able to link up to the top of Dark Star on many occasions, but continuing on the the higher anchors has been a battle.

So, I'd say if you give Dark Star 13c, the SS should be 13d. If you give Dark Star 13d, the SS is 14a, etc. But whatever, Strict Scrutiny is a cool route that actually climbs like an endurancy sport route, unlike many of Rumney's boulder problems.

By chris deulen
Sep 27, 2010

Some add'l beta:

Traverse into SS after 7th draw on DS (from the good rest jug). To do so prior, would probably merit 14a.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 30, 2013

i changed the grade on this since it is pretty well agreed on these days that it's just shy of 5.14...