This is a fun route with a high crux. The Sharp End guide says it's "gently overhanging," although I seem to recall most of it being slightly less than vertical. A bulge right at the crux, however, makes what would ordinarily be a somewhat technical right sidepull to a questionable pocket fairly burly.
This is 10 feet left of Public Zirconium; about 60 feet right of where the trail reaches the base of the Vault.
7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Mar 23, 2004
Ok, here's the scoop on this one too - description as it will appear in the soon-to-be released updated guide:
Stress Rehearsal 10d ***FA: Rick Thompson & John Musso, 2002Splendid movement at a gently overhanging angle leads to a lonely little crux. While the name might have the faint of heart feelin' a bit queasy, even wishing for a top rope, there's no need for stressing over this perfectly protected clip up. The bolts are stacked, and the clips are clean - a fine lead if you're breaking into 10-hard.Begin just left of PZ and follow progressively entertaining moves along the crack as it first aims straight up, then, makes an abrupt left turn before weaving for the top again. Solve the stumper move at the final clip to gain the anchors. Seven clips. 50 feet
As for many other newbies - stay tuned and pick up a copy of the new guide.
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 3, 2006
An excellent route with an entertaining crux.
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Really good route with good protection. Definitely worth doing, either as a goal in itself or as a warmup for other routes in the area.