|The Oyster Bar
Just left of the Oyster Bar proper is this 5 bolt route. The first bolt can be clipped by leaning off a boulder on the right instead of climbing up to it. Two bolts of steep climbing lead to the top of a large flake/horn type feature. From here easy moves lead to the fourth bolt, the third bolt seems a ways right and difficult to get to / bother clipping. Fun moves with more holds than are visible from the ground lead to the top. 2 bolt anchor, rappell the Oyster Bar routes to descend or downclimb way right, much better to rappel.
Possible .75 camalot placement behind very hollow flake, otherwise bolts and a bolted anchor.
Susan getting started on Stress Puppet.
BETA PHOTO: Stress Puppet
|By Russ Walling|
Mar 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
If I recall, this thing used to start in the crack to the right of the bolted start.... Bolted start is much nicer, with some loose rock and pretty long and steep pulls for a 10a. Anchor at top is two bolts with no chains. You can TR off this with a couple of long slings and then walk off to climbers right above Buckets of Blort.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Aug 10, 2010
FA; Todd Gordon, Jim Angione, Geoff Archer 11-91