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Stress Management 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Matt Christensen, Andy Fitz 1988
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: andyf on Feb 20, 2007
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Ed Mosshart leads Stress Management.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

When first led in 1988, Stress Management featured three fixed pins (one of which was a tied off knifeblade), RPs finagled into imaginary fissures, and some stout runouts, including one through the crux. It was also only rated 5.9.

Over the years bolts have continued to appear on the face, to the point where there's now considerably less stress to manage.

Not that this is a bad thing. Stress Management is a great climb made better by modern protection. It fully deserves the greater attention it now receives. Just remember that when you cast off on the crux move and ponder where the bolt is, it used to be a #3 RP waiting to catch a screamer.

The climb starts with a truly difficult 5.7 move, a boulder problem getting past the initial bulge of Entrance Exam (5.7). (Don't complain--it used to be rated 5.6.) The move protects well with a medium Camalot. Catch your breath, step right onto the pillar face, and place a good cam in a horizontal crack below a small roof (a #1 Flexible Friend works well). Turn the roof, reach high for a fragile-looking jug, and clip a fixed pin if you want, or skip it and clip the bomber bolt just a half-move above. Dance your way up edges large and small on great rock. The crux comes near the top.


Protection 

Medium Camalot, #1 Flexible Friend, 1 pin and 4 bolts to rap hangers.



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