Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Stress Management
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 13
votes
Routes in Orange Sunshine area
|
|
Cactus Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Columns Holiday T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Cross-eyed and Painless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cutting Edge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Dancing Madly Backwards S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Developing Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Entrance Exam (Now gone) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Humpty Dumpty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Jam Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Leftovers, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Morning After S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Orange Sunshine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Overlord, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Paul Maul T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Price of Complacency, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Rap Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Rough Boys T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Serpent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Solar King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Stress Management S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Thriller Pillar S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Thriller Pillar, Left Side T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Thriller Pillar, Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Western Front T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
X-Factor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Matt Christensen, Andy Fitz 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,411 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | andyf on Feb 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
[The pillar Stress Management ascended toppled over on April 28, 2017.]
When first led in 1988, Stress Management featured three fixed pins (one of which was a tied off knifeblade), RPs finagled into imaginary fissures, and some stout runouts, including one through the crux. It was also only rated 5.9.
Over the years bolts have continued to appear on the face, to the point where there's now considerably less stress to manage.
Not that this is a bad thing. Stress Management is a great climb made better by modern protection. It fully deserves the greater attention it now receives. Just remember that when you cast off on the crux move and ponder where the bolt is, it used to be a #3 RP waiting to catch a screamer.
The climb starts with a truly difficult 5.7 move, a boulder problem getting past the initial bulge of Entrance Exam (5.7). (Don't complain--it used to be rated 5.6.) The move protects well with a medium Camalot. Catch your breath, step right onto the pillar face, and place a good cam in a horizontal crack below a small roof (a #1 Flexible Friend works well). Turn the roof, reach high for a fragile-looking jug, and clip a fixed pin if you want, or skip it and clip the bomber bolt just a half-move above. Dance your way up edges large and small on great rock. The crux comes near the top.
When first led in 1988, Stress Management featured three fixed pins (one of which was a tied off knifeblade), RPs finagled into imaginary fissures, and some stout runouts, including one through the crux. It was also only rated 5.9.
Over the years bolts have continued to appear on the face, to the point where there's now considerably less stress to manage.
Not that this is a bad thing. Stress Management is a great climb made better by modern protection. It fully deserves the greater attention it now receives. Just remember that when you cast off on the crux move and ponder where the bolt is, it used to be a #3 RP waiting to catch a screamer.
The climb starts with a truly difficult 5.7 move, a boulder problem getting past the initial bulge of Entrance Exam (5.7). (Don't complain--it used to be rated 5.6.) The move protects well with a medium Camalot. Catch your breath, step right onto the pillar face, and place a good cam in a horizontal crack below a small roof (a #1 Flexible Friend works well). Turn the roof, reach high for a fragile-looking jug, and clip a fixed pin if you want, or skip it and clip the bomber bolt just a half-move above. Dance your way up edges large and small on great rock. The crux comes near the top.
4 Comments