|Parking Lot Rock - East
prominent hand crack/roof route to the right, about fifty feet, of funky bolt. look for the left facing dihedral that starts about fifteen feet off the deck. this dihedral, with a good hand crack in it, goes for about fifty feet until you see a huge roof that takes big gear (maybe eight or ten foot roof). fear not, for there abound plenty of feet and patina crimps on the left wall adjacent to and under the roof. continue above the roof for fifty feet or so, trending leftward, until you can clip some fixe rings around a bunch of webbing slung on a flake. bring your second up from there. Beware of the first fifteen feet, however, as it is strenuous bouldery climbing with gear you wish was better. We found this to be the crux. can be protected with yellow TCU and small wired stoppers.
about fifty feet right of 'funky bolt', the line with a huge wide roof.
double rack C4s from .5 to 2, one each 3, 4, 5 C4. some small TCUs or aliens, blue to red, (yellow especially helpful for the first bit) you could probably put a #6 in the roof if you had one. one set of stoppers.
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
This route is really fun, but probably doesn't see much traffic or just needs some tlc to clean it up a bit. Really hard start for me but then the rest is just really fun. PG-13 probably comes from the start and after the roof is some lichen covered thin moves.
Put this on your moderate roof crack list!
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Very difficult start. Yellow alien up high (work the feet). Get in a marginal hand jam, place a #2, and then you can completely pull the start.
For the roof, place a #3 at the beginning. And then although it looks scary, trust the face holds, and move out to the lip of the roof. At the lip, place a #4. Bump it as you move up! Otherwise, the rope will get stuck between the cam and the rock. I did that with a #5, and it was a royal hassle to free the rope. Save some #0.75s and #1s for the top. You can also slab traverse (sketchy) to the bush anchor to your left after exiting the roof.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2013
This route would be primo if it was clean. Despite the munge, certainly worth doing. Regular traffic can give it the complete makeover it deserves.
|By Mike Sullivan|
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The low crux requires awkward and strenuous groveling, or else this would be a 4 star climb. The big roof is super fun, and rather exciting to exit.