Strength training for general fitness?

Hello everyone.

First off a little background.

Back before I began climbing I used to lift weight regularly with the goal of simply moving more weight and gaining bulk. Of course once I began climbing I pretty much stopped lifting weights as it was simply too much strain on my body.

As I've gotten a bit older but not old (36) I've noticed that I'm loosing muscle tone and strength. As such I'm thinking of getting back into a strength training routine in order to increase my base metabolism, aid in loosing weight (along with diet and cardio), and get in better overall shape. My background in weight training in rather limiting and I'm used to doing the standard 3 sets of 10 reps style of meat-head lifting.

Please not I'm not looking for weight training exercise as a means of training for climbing but a regiment that would balance out the muscles used in climbing and help prevent injuries.

Edit:
Currently I'm climbing three times a week, doing cardio twice a week.

My questions are:

1. What strength training regiment would you recommend that would complement climbing?

2. High weight, low reps (3 x 5)? Lower weight, higher reps (3 x 15)? Something else?

3. I'm thinking of doing the following exercises three times a week: front plank, internal and external shoulder rotations, reverse wrist curls, bench press, shoulder press. Lower back extensions. What do you folks thing of this? Any recommendations?

Thanks for any constructive criticism you may have.

For those that have only vitriolic comments; well it's the internet have fun.

amazon.com/Training-New-Alp…

Where's the legs!

I would absolutely mix squats in there.

The sets/reps will depend on your goals but anything will be better than nothing. Lower reps/higher weights should help you build more muscle/strength if that is your main concern but the higher rep/lower weight will be better for climbing endurance and lean muscle growth.

What he said. It will answer your question with great depth and clarity.

Thanks everyone!

You know I used to do squats but then got into climbing and bought into the 'you need thin legs' logic; which I don't.

I do a lot of hiking though.

Squats are back in!

Hmmm so I came from a similar background (first lifting for sports, then lifting to "get big", now looking at lifting for climbing).

My thoughts on your questions:

1) Depends on the type of climbing. Heavy lifting will increase your overall work capacity and make you stronger in general (obviously). This is useful in the "hard to kill" sense for things like alpine climbing but for Cragging, not so much. For Cragging I'd focus most of my time on climbing training, and do some supplemental strength work focusing on core and antagonists.

2) High weight, low reps. You want to generate strength/power, and avoid hypertrophy if possible (big legs from squats don't get you too far climbing).

3) I do bench, shoulder press, Deadlifts, pistol squats, and a core workout (split into two workouts that alternate). Couldn't tell you what it's done for my climbing but I do feel like it helps me in the alpine as mentioned. Also haven't been injured but can't say the workout is why.

I would be careful of legs, and any bulk-building exercises. Many climbers have found that even running and cycling (very low intensity/high rep stuff) can lead to excess bulk that can inhibit climbing. Mark Anderson comes to mind specifically. (There's a blog post about it out there somewhere...)

1. + 1 for the Steve House book, Training for alpinism. Or go to Steve Bechtel's site (climbstrong.com) for ideas.

2. Depends on your goals right? I focus more on high weight, low reps, sets of 2-3. This builds strength without increasing size.
However, I vary this sometimes depending on outside climbing goals.

3. How much climbing are you doing? If climbing Sat and Sun, complement with 2 days lifting. I would consider: Deadlifts, push-ups (Only with proper form), weighted pull-ups (only if you are easily doing sets of 10-12 pull-ups already (if you can't do 12 easily, then do straight pulls ups for awhile) and kettlebell swings - Russian style with a lot of engagement.

I like squats (esp rear foot elevated split squats) but I am female and don't get size increases with leg work-outs. However, I agree with the previous post and would be super careful if you tend to pack on the weight with lower body exercises.

Do you guys/girls see leg hypertrophy even with high rep sets? Squats with low weight and ~15 reps? I enjoy squats as they are a great compound move and you can go also lightweight then stand on a bosu or similar destabilizing aid to really hit the stabilizers in your hips/legs. Lightweight squats -> explode up into an overhead press is a pretty good full body move for general fitness.

I don't crag hard and am more into alpine so OP please disregard my squat promotion if cragging performance is your goal.

I would say my goals are 1-2 pitch trad with short approaches. I am a backpacker though so having legs and knees in shape are a good thing.

Thanks everyone for your advice. I've ordered the book Mr. McMahon recommended and it should be here in a few days.

Keep the advice coming though; I'd love to hear others input on the subject.

Hi Chad,

Former fitness professional/trainer and Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist here. I will add in my basic thoughts without delving too deeply into your specific goals. (Also, I have no idea your age or health history otherwise, current fitness, etc., all of which I would normally take into account.)

I think many (most?) climbers in your position would benefit from doing the following:

• Rotator cuff training
• Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's)
• Upper extremity pushing exercises
• A little bit of isolation training for the triceps (for balance)
• Forearm work only as required
• A variety of core exercises that target both abs and low back
• Some compound lower body training for knee health and particularly posterior chain training which targets hamstrings

Two sets of most things is enough.

Contrary to popular belief, moderately high reps will actually build mass in most people, especially with multiple sets. Higher weight/lower reps are more likely to build strength and less mass. Personally, I mix it up.

Everyone's body responds a little differently to the same stimulus. Tweak accordingly.

Thanks Ariel!

Edit:
Any examples of lower trap exercises that you'd recommend?

Aerili wrote:Hi Chad, Former fitness professional/trainer and Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist here. I will add in my basic thoughts without delving too deeply into your specific goals. (Also, I have no idea your age or health history otherwise, current fitness, etc., all of which I would normally take into account.) I think many (most?) climbers in your position would benefit from doing the following: * Rotator cuff training * Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's) * Upper extremity pushing exercises * A little bit of isolation training for the triceps (for balance) * Forearm work only as required * A variety of core exercises that target both abs and low back * Some compound lower body training for knee health and particularly posterior chain training which targets hamstrings Two sets of most things is enough. Contrary to popular belief, moderately high reps will actually build mass in most people, especially with multiple sets. Higher weight/lower reps are more likely to build strength and less mass. Personally, I mix it up. Everyone's body responds a little differently to the same stimulus. Tweak accordingly.

Hi Aerili.

I always appreciate you sharing your expertise. Thanks!

Can you please explain the specific exercises you would recommend for the following:
Rotator cuff training
Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's)
Upper extremity pushing exercises

I am sure that others understand what you are talking about, but for a layman like me "I's, Y's, T's, W's" might as well be a different language. Thanks!!!

NC Rock Climber wrote: Hi Aerili. I always appreciate you sharing your expertise. Thanks! Can you please explain the specific exercises you would recommend for the following: Rotator cuff training Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's) Upper extremity pushing exercises I am sure that others understand what you are talking about, but for a layman like me "I's, Y's, T's, W's" might as well be a different language. Thanks!!!

I found this:

I, Y, T, W Formations

Forming letters with your arms activates many muscles, with certain ones being ideal for your trapezius area. Lie on your back with your knees bent, feet flat on the floor and arms resting at your side. Extend your arms above your head, thumbs resting on the floor. Your will resemble the letter "I." Return to the starting position. Extend your arms up, but widen them to form a "Y" with your body. Lower your arms to your sides, then extend them straight out at shoulder level, as if making a "T" with your body. Return your arms to your sides. Bend your elbows and raise your arms slightly, making a "W" shape with your upper body. Bring your arms back to your sides to complete the rotation. Hold each letter for 15 to 30 seconds and repeat each two to four times.

Here:
healthyliving.azcentral.com…

Aerili, that's a lot of mobility exercises, no? Not that there is anything wrong with it.

I'm surprised no one mentioned Beginning Strength, probably one of the best lifting program for beginners out there if you goal is to get strong, even thought it'll come with some hypertrophy or a lot depending how you do it.

I also found this:

youtube.com/watch?v=hltPACH…

Chad, your video link is what I meant. The other text link says to lie on your back but this is not lower trapezius training.

Personally I like to use an exercise ball vs a bench and extend my upper body off it at the same angle an inclined bench would do. I get some additional lower back/glute/hamstring strengthening this way. I also sometimes hold a small towel between my hands, particularly with Y's. Avoid shrugging the shoulders toward the ears (really difficult with the I's).

NC Rock Climber wrote: Hi Aerili. I always appreciate you sharing your expertise. Thanks! Can you please explain the specific exercises you would recommend for the following: Rotator cuff training Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's) Upper extremity pushing exercises I am sure that others understand what you are talking about, but for a layman like me "I's, Y's, T's, W's" might as well be a different language. Thanks!!!

Thanks! Did the above help resolve your question?

divanamite wrote:Aerili, that's a lot of mobility exercises, no? Not that there is anything wrong with it.

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean? All these exercises should help improve stability without compromising mobility...

Thanks Chad and Aerili. That answered my questions!

Thanks Ariel, that makes perfect sense.

P90X 2 is a very well balanced workout involving both body weight and light to medium weights with: CORE, CARDIO, YOGA, UPPER AND LOWER BODY and STRETCHING. It is really easy to follow and required no thought, no gym and accomodates your schedule. Combined with climbing specific or bouldering workouts; I found it really helped me stay healthy and gain strength. No climbing or hiking injuries for years due primarily working on joints, tendons as well as muscles. P90 X involves more weights and promotes more muscle growth. I bought medicine balls and P90x2 on Craigslist (new copy). Easy way to cover all the bases (introduced me to Yoga too!). There are also enough workouts on youtube for free to answer any of your needs. Climbers aging: first to go is metabolism, second is muscle atrophy, third is prostate until finally you become a fly fisherman :)

Brendan Blanchard wrote:I would be careful of legs, and any bulk-building exercises. Many climbers have found that even running and cycling (very low intensity/high rep stuff) can lead to excess bulk that can inhibit climbing. Mark Anderson comes to mind specifically. (There's a blog post about it out there somewhere...)

yeah cuz squats only target leg muscles not any other muscles like obliques, erector spinae, abdominals, deltoids, trapezius, rhomboids.....

hehe