Listed as a project in the new Devil's Head Guidebook, this route goes all the way up the east face of the De Spectaculus tower. Continuous climbing past the first 10 bolts gives way to some easier climbing, then hard again as the rock steepens higher up. There are two anchors on this route so that you can just do the first 100' or go all the way in one pitch (bring a fat wad of draws). You'll have to rap twice to get off with one rope if you do the whole thing in one pitch.
20 bolts + anchors.
|By Dave Carey|
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 15, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
This climb was unreal. I have not had too many climbs with such sustainable and challenging moves that varied so much. Crimpers, laybacks, pseudo-chimney, finger jams, hand jams, slab, ...and 150 ft! It would be tough to get clean because it is so long though. I think that this climb should be a destination climb for Colorado climbers at least and is a real 11 testpiece. Although, I thought that no move was really more than maybe 11b/c...just sustained. Great climb!