Street Walking Cheetah
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Fun long route. Start in thin crack which eventually widens to fingers then narrows to tips. Good crimps along the way. Sporty moves.
Crack to the right of Colonnade
Gear to 1.5 inches. Doubles around .5, heavy in small stoppers. HB offsets might be helpful.
|Comments on Street Walking Cheetah
Jul 4, 2010
I cleaned a lot of dirt out of this crack in order to lead it. I am wondering if it was the first time anybody has led this route on gear. There were anchors on top but no signs of a free ascent. I will suggest a grade of 11d. I would like to get some people on it to get a consensus. Anybody have any info? Great Route.
From: Tacoma, WA
Jul 16, 2010
I understand from a credible source that this was climbed free by Erik Thixton and a partner (mid '90s?), but never named. Don't know what they graded it. I can try to find out more.
I looked over at this years ago when I was cleaning Colonnade. It looked to me like it could end higher (above the current anchor), over the bulge to give access to the upper tier of rock. Check it out.
It's still a bit confusing to me whether Tieton River Rocks means to refer to this line as "Firestone" or the line immediately left of Wildcat Crack. I put the anchor in above the line left of Wildcat Crack and TR'd it (circa 1992), but lost interest due to rock quality on the upper pillar. The start is a fantastic finger crack, but it disappears into desperate shallow stems; maybe .12b?
Jul 17, 2010
Thanks Andy. I would be curious to hear what they thought the grade is. My rope is on the line left of Wildcat right now. I have TR'd it and think 12a or b would be the grade. I think it deserves a few bolts on the top because you would have to use #1 and #2 stoppers in not so good placements. I talked with Marlene and Jim about the lines and we finally agreed they have it wrong in the guidebook. So it goes Firestone, Iron Oxide, Unnamed, and then Colonnade. What do you think about bolts on the upper portion of firestone.
From: Tacoma, WA
Jul 18, 2010
That's how I was going to do it. I thought the first clip would be where you're standing on the horizontal break that pretty much marks the end of the finger crack.
While you're working up there, you should clean Iron Oxide (the crux especially)! That line would be as stellar as its neighbors with a little cleaning.
Jul 18, 2010
Andy, I placed bolts and led Firestone today. I thought it was a great route. I placed the first bolt standing on the break (I read this after bolting today) and 3 more above for a total of 4. I'm calling it 12a. I TR'd Iron Oxide the other weekend when I thought it was Firestone and I agree. It is a stellar climb. I will clean it up a bit next time. Great section of the wall! I am also going to change the suggested grade for the line right of colonnade to 11c. I feel it better represents the climb. I will update the page soon.
Jul 19, 2010
I have given this route a name since it was unnamed by the FA team.