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Climb up the prow, big moves to horizontals. Tie off bushes at the top for a belay. Best route in the area IMO.
Next route right of Blackboard that follows the black and tan streaked prow threw horizontals. You are pretty much staring at the climb once you walk into the corridor.
Small cams and some slings to build a good anchor
Jun 13, 2009
I thought this route was a bit harder than the book said. We forgot the book in the car and picked this route because it looked really good. While leading, it started raining and made it to the top before it really started dumping. Me and my friend took a guess on how hard it could be, I said 10a and my friend said 10c. We got back to the car and found out it was a 8-! We climbed three 5.7s before this and noticed this one was a grade or so harder. Whatever the grade was, it was fun as hell. Never climbed on the Gritstone before but it felt like I was climbing in England!