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Strawberry Overpass
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in South Face
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A Spirit of Adventure T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granite Pancakes & Scrambled Eggs T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raspberry Bypass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Strawberry Overpass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | Mark Nicholas and Brian Harrington, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,112 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Johnsen on May 14, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Starts at the leftmost bolt of the south face of Hogsback, and works up a short, technical slabby face section, culminating in the crux move(s), over the first twenty feet and two bolts. Mind the ground fall potential on a move or two.
From there all the guides are vague about the finish. I followed my leader's wandering line up 5.7 to 5.9 rock (depending on the variations chosen) following adequately protectable cracks and features. If you meander as we did, also mind the rope drag. This influenced us to break it into two pitches halfway up a 60 meter rope, although we had enough rope to top out (certainly the route is less than 200 feet tall total).
All routes on Hogsback south go to the same largest tree described as a landmark in the Falcon guide. From the tree, they scramble up lower angle class 4, perhaps easy 5., to the level top of the formation (which is also the top of the rarely climbed fifth pitch of Better with Bacon on the north side of the Hogsback/Hogwild).
None of the Hogsback south stuff gets much action, so expect much more lichen, moss and loose rock than on the training lines and classics.
From there all the guides are vague about the finish. I followed my leader's wandering line up 5.7 to 5.9 rock (depending on the variations chosen) following adequately protectable cracks and features. If you meander as we did, also mind the rope drag. This influenced us to break it into two pitches halfway up a 60 meter rope, although we had enough rope to top out (certainly the route is less than 200 feet tall total).
All routes on Hogsback south go to the same largest tree described as a landmark in the Falcon guide. From the tree, they scramble up lower angle class 4, perhaps easy 5., to the level top of the formation (which is also the top of the rarely climbed fifth pitch of Better with Bacon on the north side of the Hogsback/Hogwild).
None of the Hogsback south stuff gets much action, so expect much more lichen, moss and loose rock than on the training lines and classics.
Location
On the south face of the Hogsback. Try to follow use trails up from the Pony Express Trail to the steepest section. From the base of the face, look for Mike Carville's "windswept tree" just above halfway up the route. As of 2013, it starts at the leftmost bolt of this section.
(Thanks Ed and Petch for better descent beta!) From the top of the formation, scramble down class 2 to 3 slabs to your right (generally southeast) until you reach the base of the steep section, then turn back west to the base of the wall.
Petch gave me this beta and we did it yesterday - not too hair ball, and very direct:
From the top, scramble down 4th class gully to the west (this leads to top of Hogwild area), then take good trail back to Pony Express trail.
(Thanks Ed and Petch for better descent beta!) From the top of the formation, scramble down class 2 to 3 slabs to your right (generally southeast) until you reach the base of the steep section, then turn back west to the base of the wall.
Petch gave me this beta and we did it yesterday - not too hair ball, and very direct:
From the top, scramble down 4th class gully to the west (this leads to top of Hogwild area), then take good trail back to Pony Express trail.
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