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Straw Turkey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 7,468
Submitted By: Lyle Monzyk on Jan 1, 2001
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Start of the 2nd pitch.

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Description 

This climb is on Turkey Rock.

P1. The first pitch offers excellent moves up disjointed thin cracks with great moves and superb protection. The start begins 10-15 feet right of a huge pine tree, at the base of the climb there is a good lounging rock. Begin the climb by face climbing up the incipient cracks, past a great mantle, and up to two steep small dihedrals. After the dihedrals, find a good ledge for the belay (this is a long pitch).

P2. For the second pitch continue up the chimney/crack system until you reach an 20' offwidth section. Place your #5 and go, or walk it up. For an offwidth its not too bad (7).

P3. The last pitch exits up a small 5.6 section. Walk off to the right. Last note: You can avoid the offwidth pitch by bringing two ropes and rappelling off some slings on the first pitch.


Protection 

Bring double wires, and cams to #1 on first pitch, the off-width section will need a #5.



Photos of Straw Turkey Slideshow Add Photo
Darin Lang, just before courageously bailing on Straw Turkey.
Darin Lang, just before courageously bailing on St...
Paul enjoying the crux finger section of Straw Turkey.
Paul enjoying the crux finger section of Straw Tur...
The 5.8 OW . . . got a #3 Big-Bro in at the start but still walked a new C4 #5 two times and then got a #4 in.
The 5.8 OW . . . got a #3 Big-Bro in at the ...
Nearing the top of first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the top of first pitch.
Straw Turkey 1 pitch just before the thin stuff at the top.
Straw Turkey 1 pitch just before the thin stuff at...
At the good rest on the "mantle" ledge. <br />Photo C. Mitchell.
At the good rest on the "mantle" ledge.
Photo C. M...
1/3 up the 2nd pitch, this part was a lot of fun 5.7ish.  The OW is still out of sight about 30ft up.
1/3 up the 2nd pitch, this part was a lot of fun 5...
In the crux thin crack near the top of pitch one. <br />Photo: C. Mitchell.
In the crux thin crack near the top of pitch one.
...
Looking down the 2nd pitch from just below the OW.
Looking down the 2nd pitch from just below the OW.
Comments on Straw Turkey Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 13, 2014
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 7, 2001

As my partner, the infamous Dean Miller stated, "this route defines 10a in the Platte."

By Lyle Monzyk
Aug 15, 2002

Please help with the FA, was it Mr. Dunn, or Mr. Wiggins?

By Hayden Yurkanis
Jul 22, 2003

This climb offers varied and sustained climbing, you might want to bring up an RP or two if you're at your limit and want to really sew her up---excellent pro the whole way even though it looks like the first 40ft are going to be spicy.

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

When I first did this in '99 there were slings off to the right ( around the horizontal crack ) These are now gone. Continue up to the cables to rap off.

Great feet up the whole route!

By Chris Barlow
Sep 28, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

As far as rapping off after the first pitch, you can also do a short downclimb to the large ledge ten feet lower than the cable belay and then traverse well to the right, around the corner. There is another anchor from which you can get to the ground with one rope (a 60m leaves you with a touch of down climbing).

By TBD
Jun 27, 2005

Regarding the first pitch, I think this is one of those "no move is harder than 10a" routes. Great sustained and varied climbing. The gear is a little thin if you want to protect the mantle move directly, and if you don't, the fall would be unpleasant.

It doesn't get much better than this.

By Scott Bennett
Mar 4, 2009

You can rap/lower off the fixed anchor atop p1 (some nuts and webbing) with a 70m rope. Great route, a must do at the grade.

By Nelson
From: FT Carson
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

A blue TCU protects the mantle quite nicely, there is a little pod that it fits in.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 6, 2011

This is a must do on Turkey Rock!

By Lyont72
From: Foco, CO
Jun 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Top notch route . . . lots of variation all over the climb. Posted a few photos, hope they help.

Happy sending

By Moritz B.
4 days ago

We lowered off the anchors with a 60m rope - no problem.