|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches, 125'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||LeeAB on Jul 27, 2009|
|Comments on Stratocaster||Add Comment|
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Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|P1 was a bit awkward and includes a non-trivial unprotected traverse to gain the bolts. P2 is a fantastic climb on super sculpted holds.|
By Austin Boren
From: ;as vegas Nevada
Nov 17, 2013
|we had a mini epic 30 feet off the ground. We couldn't get past the traverse after the chimney. If you need a number 3 nut you know where it is.|
Nov 19, 2013
Epic at 30 feet! Keep your phone handy to call SAR when attempting this pitch.
The start is a total grovel-fest. Unprotected belly flopping / worm squirming / mantle to get off the ground, then (after a rest) your reward is an awkward flaring chimney protected by as many #00 - .25 cams as you want to put in. I think I had 6 in the space of about 3 feet.
Falling off the exit, even with gear at your knees would be painful.
I have to assume the second pitch has one of the most lopsided ratios of "awesomeness vs number of people who actually try it" possible, due to needing to either climb the aforementioned grovel or the 12c direct just to get to it. Yuck.