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The way I've always done this route is to just continue from above Stratocater Direct, this makes it a sport climb. Alternately you can start in the corner to the right at 5.10 and you need some gear.
From the Direct anchors head up to a higher anchor and belay. Power up the sculpted arete on really cool wind carved holds. Finish by doing a wierd "mantle" into a scoop/ fin of rock that curves out behind you.
Great position, cool movement and holds.
Climbs the prominent arete on the right hand side of the Stratocaster Wall. Starting in a corner to the right or on Stratocaster Direct.
Bolts and bolted anchor if using the Direct start, otherwise gear is needed for the first pitch.
Mar 17, 2013
P1 was a bit awkward and includes a non-trivial unprotected traverse to gain the bolts. P2 is a fantastic climb on super sculpted holds.