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The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)
This route climbs out from the right side of the Stratocaster cave. There is an obvious belay stance under the first bolt. Be careful of the sticky bushes if you come swinging off the route!
Five bolts to some eyebolt anchors.
Photo by John Tormalehto
Stratocaster direct this bad boy has a tough move ...
The hero clip.
Josh, post crux.
me mid-dyno for the jug of glory
worth the approach and then some.
|Comments on Stratocaster Direct
|By Toby B|
Jan 5, 2012
Be wary of the fixed gear on this route at the moment. I was here over Thanksgiving and the 'biner on the first bolt's fixed draw doesn't close on its own and is looking pretty worse for wear. We put our own draw in there but as we were on a trip didn't have spare gear to leave behind.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
The gate on the biner of the first fixed draw is still in the same condition as of 11/30/13. Clip it, but stick the second for sure. The crappy biner still does a fine job of redirecting the forces if you blow the dyno and keeps you from slamming into your belayer. The crux move it rad as hell!