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Stratocaster Direct 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dan McQuade
Season: Any
Page Views: 4,568
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006
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Matt McMurray crossing-through after the dynamic t...

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Description 

The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)


Location 

This route climbs out from the right side of the Stratocaster cave. There is an obvious belay stance under the first bolt. Be careful of the sticky bushes if you come swinging off the route!


Protection 

Five bolts to some eyebolt anchors.



Photos of Stratocaster Direct Slideshow Add Photo
The hero clip.
The hero clip.
Photo by John Tormalehto
Photo by John Tormalehto
Stratocaster direct this bad boy has a tough move on it.
Stratocaster direct this bad boy has a tough move ...
me mid-dyno for the jug of glory
me mid-dyno for the jug of glory
Josh, post crux.
Josh, post crux.
Josh...firing.
Josh...firing.
worth the approach and then some.
worth the approach and then some.
Comments on Stratocaster Direct Add Comment
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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

The gate on the biner of the first fixed draw is still in the same condition as of 11/30/13. Clip it, but stick the second for sure. The crappy biner still does a fine job of redirecting the forces if you blow the dyno and keeps you from slamming into your belayer. The crux move is rad as hell!

By Justin Streit
Jan 9, 2014

Was at the wall again today and did the jump start for fun. Good times for anyone in the area. Good way to end the day with the homies.