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Eagle Buttress and Environs
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Beth Anne's Crack T 
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Mission to Moscow T 
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Strangeways T 
Ultralite Flight T 

Strangeways 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Andy Ross, Gene Vallee, Shingo Ohkawa & Alex Quitiquit
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: apross on Nov 22, 2012

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The Mayor of LCC keeping it real.

Description 

This is a great route which requires all the granite techniques. Deceptively steep and sustained, we thought it was going to be about 9+ when we first looked at it.
Four cruxes. Which one is harder? Depends on your technique.
Takes gear well, especially wires.


Location 

This is on the lowest part of the crag, 20ft down and right of the obvious corner. Starts below a small tree stump.
See Shake it Up for directions to the crag.


Protection 

Set of wires, 1/2" to 3" cams and bolts.
Keep a 1/2",1" and 3" cams for between the two bolts. Little 5.6 runout at the top to the bolt anchor.



Photos of Strangeways Slideshow Add Photo
G. Strangeways 11-. <br /> <br />Photo. Zac Robinson.
BETA PHOTO: G. Strangeways 11-.

Photo. Zac Robinson.
Strangeways. The first 50ft.
Strangeways. The first 50ft.
Comments on Strangeways Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Nov 30, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

A whole lot of deceptively awesome climbing.

By Derek West Newman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

It doesn't look at all how it climbs. Really fun movement with lots of rests. Great gear and a bolt to protect the crux, thank god.