Stranger Than Friction 5.10b PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | James Crump, Matty Nematollahi |
| Submitted By: | Neal Douglass on Mar 9, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Stranger starts near red mark on right. Small ramp...
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Description The start is slight right of the bolt line up a flake into a dish. Clip first bolt and move left to the second bolt. It is best to remove the first clip as it will cause rope drag. Move past the bolt using a mantle move. This gives way to the second (3rd) bolt. Climb up to a good stance and clip the third (4th)bolt and the next fun moves. A small crack and a fancy foot work gets you past this fun section. Once above the crack you encounter another mantle and access to the fourth (5th) bolt. Move a little left and climb up to a short ramp and the fifth (6th) bolt. A long run out of around 35' up and right takes you to the rap anchors and finishes the first pitch. The second pitch is on easy but run out rock to the top. There are belay anchors at the base of a large boulder at the top. You may also use the rap anchors that will deposited you at the base on French Route.
Location Starts at small flake right of a large dish. Rap anchors finish first pitch. Climb out or rap to base of French Route.
Protection 6 bolts & Rap anchors
Chillin' out after the run-out!
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| Comments on Stranger Than Friction |
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By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| this route feels easier than 5.10 to me compared to other 10s ive been on. It is however pretty sustained from start to the top out of the vertical section. Great route and worth doing. |
By John D
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.10b PG13
| The mantle's on this route were super fun, but I'd hate to blow them, you'll go for a ride. Also it can be done as one pitch, I got a little lost after I finished the first pitch, so I clipped one of the anchor bolts and kept hiking. Probably easier to do it in one pitch, gives you less time to think about the super run out 5.7 slab ahead. You can protect the last move or two to the second pitch anchors. I think it's about a green camalot size but can't remember for sure. |
By Doug Meneke
May 6, 2013
| I did this onsite years ago. 10b for sure. Yes, that 2nd mantel will get the heart rate up, even before you do it! Don't forget Fly on a Windshield (10a) and French Route (11a), just to the right. |
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